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In your 40s. Skincare Routine

By the time we’re 40, we usually feel that our skin-care routine is all worked out. But hormonal bombardment means your skin will benefit from some simple tweaks to ensure you make it through the decade with a youthful glow.

Gradual noticeable changes in the skin are due to a decline in estrogen which directly affects the function of key cells in the skin, such as fibroblasts (which produce collagen and elastin – whose job it is to keep our skin firm and smooth).

Many of us will notice:

  1. Increase in fine lines (around eyes  & mount, between brows, forehead)
  2. Brown spots (on face, neck, chest, back)
  3. Loss in skin tone (especially noticeable on the chin & cheeks)
  4. Minor skin growths (on the face and body that begin as small bumps)

Your ideal regimen

  1. CleanseChoose cleansers that remove the dirt without stripping your skin of moisture. Cleansers that “dissolve” make-up are the best. They don’t necessarily have to produce a lot of leather if any. Products containing natural exfoliators, such as alpha hydroxy acids, help slough away dead skin, clear up menopausal  acne and stimulate collagen production – these are usually best for thicker skins, prone to breakouts and spots. We have six excellent cleansers to select from in four skin care ranges. If you are stuck, just buzz us for a quick chat.
  1. Protect: This comes in two ways. Protect on cellular level with a stable vitamin C compound (we have 12%, 18% and 28% available, depending on your overall skin’s health). These serums come with added antioxidants to fight the free radicals and help reverse some of the damage you already have. The other side of the coin is of course SPF to prevent sun damage. Esquire about Vit C & Mineral Pro
  1. Rebuild: All the reparative processes in your body happen while you sleep. Your skin is exactly the same. Chat to us about various strengths and forms of Vitamin A (3TR, 6TR, 10TR) serums and balms we have for you to select from.  Your retinol prescription will take your skin to new heights!
  1. Hydrate: Did you know that hyaluronic acid is also called the KING of all moisturizing components? Skin needs constant hydration as well as retaining its moisture. Check the true moisturising system we have which combine both brightening and anti-ageing benefits.
  1. Do Not Neglect Your Eyes. Use an eye cream to reduce the appearance of fine lines or puffiness around the eyes. Dab it on with your ring finger, tapping lightly to give an instant circulation boost to the eye area. For the best eye anti-aging skin regime,talk to us about Cosmedix Opti Crytal ($125) or Medik8 Hydr8 Night Eye ($85) for the most delicate skin on your face

 

How to remove age spots effectively

Age spots are also known as brown spots or liver spots. They typically appear on areas most exposed to sun:

  • back of the hands
  • face
  • neck
  • decolatage
  • legs
  • back
  • shoulders

When we’re young we don’t even think they’ll appear on our skin (and even if they do – it’s so far in the future that you’ll deal with it when it happens). Unfortunately, age spots can sneak up on you before you know it.

Although unsightly, age spots are not harmful to your health in any way.

However, considering the importance of clear, unblemished skin to your overall image and self confidence, it is worthwhile making an effort to prevent and remove age spots if they do appear. Age spots can range in size from anything from a small freckle to much bigger in size, but they often group together making them appear larger

 

What causes age spots?

The main cause for age spots is sun exposure, which is why they usually appear on areas not usually covered by clothing such as the face, neck, hands and arms.

The sun-exposed skin produces a pigment called melanin as a natural defense against the sun’s harmful UV – and the body’s natural ageing process then causes cells to generate even more melanin, creating age spots. Genetics also play a role, with some people being genetically predisposed to age spots. Typically, they appear towards our 40s but some skin types can develop age spots and sun spots much earlier.

 

Removing Age Spots

This is one of those cases when prevention is better than cure. So the best way to treat age spots is to prevent them from occurring. It is must easier than you think!

It can be something as simple as making sure to apply ample amounts of sunscreen before heading out into the sun; covering your skin by wearing all white if you’ll be outdoors for an extended period of time; or avoiding the sun altogether if you please.

If you’re opting to go the sunscreen route to prevent age spots, make sure your sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays and has a minimum SPF 15. You should only wear physical, not chemical sunblock to avoid skin issues in the future. Remembering that sun protection doesn’t only shield you from age spots and sun spots but is also a must if you want to keep your skin looking youthful and healthy.

You can remove or fade out age spots in a few effective ways:

 

  • Microdermabrasion (which is not my favorite but moderately effective) – scrubs away the top layer of skin so that it is eventually replaced by new skin. It also improves overall skin quality.
  • Photo Rejuvenation by IPL/Laser (which is by far the fastest and the most effective way but not suitable for everyone), stimulates and shatters the pigmented spot allowing the body to eliminate the unwanted excessive pigment while having little or no effect on other tissues or on normal skin color. The brown spots may become darker within hours of treatment, then flake off over a 7 to 14 day period
  • Chemical peels (great but can be little time consuming) – Many experts say that peels are an ideal choice for the treatment of age spots, particularly for lighter coloured spots. There are many peels that are specifically formulated to help with the reduction of age spots and even out overall skin tone, while leaving the skin hydrated.

 

Best Products for Age Spots

Whether you opt for the procedure or the prescription route, following up with good skin care products will help your skin look its best.

The best products to use for age spots are anti-aging products that are packed with skin brightening ingredients. The best cream for age spots are commonly include Bleaching Agents, Niacinamides, Vitamin A or Vitamin C. They are great option to help brighten skin and fade age spots gradually over the course of a few months

 

  1. SerumWhite Balance Click OXY-R

White Balance® Click Oxy-R is a silky serum containing an innovative ingredient called Oxyresveratrol (Oxy-R). This active ingredient specifically helps minimise the appearance of skin pigmentation; reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone and improving the overall appearance of sun damaged skin. It contains 10 carefully chosen active ingredients in a patent-pending solution to help reduce the appearance of skin pigmentation as well as providing the feeling of immediate hydration. Suitable for sensitive skin, it is free from kojic acid, reinoids and Hydroquinone. It contains a hint of Ylang Ylang for a natural and comforting fragrance.  White Balance® Click Oxy-R contains a patent-pending stabilisation technology, which addresses and helps to inhibit the appearance of melanin-based pigmentation (caused by sun-damage).  The unique Click delivery system, coupled with splitting the formula into 2 x 10ml individual bottles, ensures the Oxy-R active remains fresh and potent for maximum results.

2. CreamDAY/NIGHT –  White Balance Duo

White Balance Day & Night are part of the Medik8 Pigmentation Solution. It is a daily moisturising system combining both brightening and anti-ageing benefits, containing a unique ingredient Oxyresveratrol (Oxy-R) which specifically helps minimise skin pigmentation; reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone and improving the overall appearance of sun-damaged skin. Working in conjunction with White Balance Click, they deliver long lasting and visible lightening benefits to the skin.  The day formula has an ultra-high SPF 50 coupled with a wonderfully light texture; perfect for all skin types. It provides instant brightening benefits thanks to light reflective pigments. Whilst melanin production continues as you sleep, the night formula carries on working, lightening skin colour and creating an even skin tone. Niacinamide helps to reduce dark spots and inflammation while improving the overall appearance of skin. Gluconolactone helps to repair the skin barrier overnight and thereby keeps skin moisturised.

 

3. Treatment – White peel

Superficial, quick and effective way to achieve a brighter and even skin tone, free of age spots and dark spots and hyperpigmentation, is to eliminate skin cells rich in melanin and prevent the darkening of the new skin cells. White Peel has been especially designed to target the skin’s pigment cells to gentle and effectively reduce the appearance of unwanted discoloration. Combines 4 acids to being you powerful results

  • Phytic Acid: an effective depigmenting agent with anti-tyrosinase activity, reducing the melanin content of the skin
  • L-Lactic Acid: an alpha hydroxy acid proven to reduce melanin formation
  • Salicylic Acid: loosens hardened keratinised material while providing gentle exfoliation for the skin
  • L-Mandelic Acid: a mild and effective alpha-hydroxy acid encouraging cellular regeneration. Often compared to glycolic acid for the results it provides without the negative effect: less redness, less downtime

 

Erasing the signs of ageing

Wrinkles… What are they?

Wrinkles (aka smile lines, frown lines, crows feet, folds and skin cracks /and tracks) are an inevitable part of life. Love them, hate them – you cant really stop them…. well…. not forever anyway….

Some lines are the result of aging of the skin. Others come about due to muscle movement (they are also referred to as expression lines or mimic lines).  The process which controls wrinkle onset and development happens in the dermis.

Dermis is the middle layer of the skin and it contains the structural elements of the skin collagen and elastin. These elements along with a few other processes are responsible for elasticity, strength, firmness and integrity of our skin and give it structure and “body”.

 

Choosing the right wrinkle fighters

Because sometimes collagen building skin care ingredients can be irritating and tricky to use, you need to understand how to best use them for your skin.

They each have pros and cons that you need to understand in order to choose the one that’s right for you. It is best to consult your skin care professional to help you build the skin care routine to support your cells as they adjust to these powerful wrinkle fighting products. Serums are a wonderful to build a support base for anti-wrinkle creams. Let’s check out the top 4 serums and top 4 creams that will enhance one another’s actions and help in the anti wrinkle fight

TOP 4  anti-wrinkles serums:

  1. M8 HYDRA8 B5 SERUM – A light weight and easily absorbed hydrating serum that softens, hydrates and improves the general condition of the skin. Contains Vitamin B5 and Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a moisturising active that holds 1000 times its own weight in water, providing 24 hour non-stop hydration.
  2. M8 CE-THIONEA rechargeable vitamin C that minimises the formation of age spots for a visibly brighter skin tone and improving overall firmness. Also contains 15% L-Ascorbic acid which stimulates our collagen production.
  3. M8 RETINOL 3tr/6tr/10tr –  Retinol is considered the most effective product to help with signs of aging. Not only does it stimulate the production of collagen but also increases epidermal hyaluronic acid, improving appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin roughness and loss of tone. Over all it gives you a more youthful glow. Always starting with lower strengths and building your skin up to tolerate higher percentages of vitamin A.
  4. SKEYNDOR CORRECTIVE – Skeyndor corrective creams are formulated to smooth out the expression lines from the face. This unique cream can be used day and/or night and is more suitable for dry, mature skin. It has skin-lifting peptides with pre- synaptic activity, “Viper venom” – reduces wrinkle depth & softens wrinkle contour

 

TOP 4 anti-wrinkle creams:

  1. Mesoestetics Collagen 360 – Performs a dual action, it maintains the natural collagen amino acid profile and stimulates the formation of new collagen. Made with Hydrolyzed collagen (collagen made in the lab) which is compatible with our skin cells allowing it to stimulate cells that are involved in collagen synthesis.
  2. M8 Hyrd8 Night – A rich fast absorbing night treatment that helps to reverse the skin aging effects of the glycation process. Resveratrol is a new active ingredient that promotes cell longevity which helps to improve tired skin overnight.
  3. M8 Hyrd8 360 A rich nourishing moisturiser that combats visible signs of aging. Has advanced active ingredients that reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Gives UVA and UVB protection that helps prevent skin ageing providing an intensive moisturising and revitalising effect in a unique treatment formulation to target the process of glycation.
  4. Mesoestetics Radiance DNA intensive cream – Ultimate antiaging cream. It preserves DNA Integrity. It stimulates the activity of those genes responsible of DNA repair which slows down premature aging, it also neutralises free radicals which delays the skin aging process.

 

And lastly you can turn on your collagen producing cells faster by synergetic approach in-clinic treatments and by home-use products. Professional in house antiaging treatments will stimulate production of collagen in a much faster way but home products will enhance and support the results of treatments. Or visit our Chadstone Melbourne store to learn more

Are you ruining your skin? Retin-A for acne & anti-agening

Check out these – a few little known facts about RETIN-A

1) Active ingredient in Retin A breaks down in sunlight

2) Applying Retin-A to moist skin causes more peeling & skin irritation

3) Some of the most common ingredients found in skin care products aren’t compatible with retinols

 

Now, that we got that out of the way – it is fair to say that

if used correctly, retinol can do amazing things for your skin!

It is known as the king of anti ageing. It is also the best acne warrior known to man! (what do you think roaccutane is made of??)

 

Medik8 has developed a unique encapsulated, time release system for Retinol products. This not only enhances stability and freshness, but also prevents the usually high irritation caused to skin from higher concentrations of retinol by maintaining a slow, but continuous delivery of the active ingredient. The results are fast with no skin irritation.

Medik8’s Retinol range comes in 3 different strengths:
Retinol 3TR, Retinol 6TR, and Retinol 10TR

*Note Retinol 10TR is only recommended for those skins acclimatised already to Vitamin A products. If you have never used Retinol before, then it is wise to start with minimum strength and build it up.

Tips and tricks for Retinol beginners:

  • Apply it to your skin at bedtime, never use it during the day
  • Never combine with products containing ingredients such as glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide
  • Always wait at least 15 to 30 minutes after cleansing your skin and applying any other skin care products before you apply retinol

What else will help your skin to tolerate retinol for anti wrinkle therapy?

  1. Start Retinol therapy by using the product twice a week (every third night) and slowly increase to every night over a month or two as your skin adjusts. A little scaliness and irritation is normal at first, but if the treated skin becomes really sensitive, back off and wait. Let the skin return to normal then begin treatment again. Slowly try to increase to every night as your skin adjusts.
  2. Apply a ‘pearl-sized‘ portion to the face. Use the same amount for the neck and/or chest.
  3. If your skin continues to become irritated and just won’t adjust to retinol treatment, then switch to entirely non-irritating cleansers like Medik8 Red Alert. Many cleansers are too irritating for retinol treated skin.
  4. Tell your skin care specialist before performing a procedure such as a chemical peel, microdermabrasion, laser or any other light treatments that you using retinol. They may ask you to stop it for a period of time before and after your treatment.
  5. Always protect your skin from the sun to avoid undesirable sun damage.

 

Why use Retinol skin care?

Scientific studies and my skin care experience has given me so many reasons to be a big fan of Retinol!

  • It has proven itself to reduce, reverse, and prevent wrinkles. The younger a person starts (teens and twenties), the more benefit they receive, but it’s never too late!
  • It helps lighten and prevent age spots
  • It builds collagen to thicken and increase the structural strength of treated skin
  • Skin just looks better and younger when they use retinol

Facials are absolutely essential – but only if you want great looking skin

First, let’s put this question in perspective……Everything in life requires regular maintenance garden, car, your house…

Now, your skin is no different. Like it or not, we’re often judged (good and bad) by how we look and appearance of skin has a lot to do with it.  How healthy, glowing, smoothly textured your facial skin looks says something about you and your habits. Having said that, great skin care habits are important, yet can only take you so far.

The best and longest lasting results in the face care department depend on a few other things. The optimum boosts come from periodic high performance facial treatments. When a professional gets their hands on your face – skin responds and I’ll go as far as to say “communicates” with the professional, allowing them to achieve the desired results faster. Other factors such as type of food we eat, water intake and the environment also play part in the health of our skin. So, facials – are they a treat or a necessity for great, healthy, radiant skin?

 

Facials are absolutely essential – but only if you want great looking skin 🙂

To help you understand the power of facials for your complexion, let me explain what you get and what the process involves.

 

12 important benefits of facials:

  • Facials rejuvenate and revive skin
  • Remove wear and tear and tank-up the skin for more visibility and exposure
  • Stimulate skin’s renewal mechanisms
  • Enhance lymphatic and blood flow in the skin
  • Resurfacing (exfoliating) and deeply cleansing of skin
  • Dramatic improvement in skin’s texture and colour
  • Minimise scarring, wrinkles and fine lines
  • Diminish pigmentation
  • Desensitise sensitive skin
  • Build up skin’s tolerance
  • Stimulate collagen and elastic products
  • Hydrate and plump up tired looking skin

What’s the process and why it works?

When the epidermis (top layer of skin) becomes overloaded with “dead” skin cells, the skin’s appearance becomes dull and creepy-looking. It feels thick and gummy to the touch. It is also usually full of blackheads or white heads (otherwise, known as comedones) and clogged pores. As this layer thickens even more, products stop penetrating down into the layers of the skin. This means that elasticity and collagen production slows down, and comedones grow even bigger so that they are visible even from a distance. To show you what I mean, here’s a little test we do in the aesthetic room to help clients understand how much congestion their skin really has:

Home care tip: Start at the bottom middle of the chin and spread the skin tight and look at it closely in a magnifying mirror with good light. You’ll see either little pores that are clean and tight (a good sign) or you’ll see what we call congestion – blackheads or white heads and pores filled with greasy black material. You may even be able to rub off a layer of gummy dead cells (not a good sign). 

When someone comes in for a facial, we clean and then professionally exfoliate the skin to remove congestion and to allow a lot of comedones to be easily extracted from the skin. We then apply therapeutic products to balance the complexion. If someone has never had a facial and doesn’t do any kind of exfoliation, there are going to be lots of layers to clean away. In these cases, we will work over time to get the complexion where we want it. In general, I usually see first-time clients every 4-6 weeks so we can get a handle on the congestion.

 

Are you too far away from Chadstone Melbourne to come in for a facial with us?

 

If so, you can try doing a DIY facial at home with products we recommend. Simply call us to book a complimentary 15-30min skype/facetime consult so we can fill customise the product for you.

 

Here is what we would recommend for a slightly sensitive but otherwise problem free skin :

STEP 1: Double cleanse with Gentle cleanse or Red Alert cleanse. Use plenty of water and warm towel to remove all product

STEP 2: Place warm dump towel over your face (leaving out the nose) for 3-5min to warm up the skin and open up pores. Change towel when it cools down

STEP 3: Use a magnifying mirror to see if you have any comedones that can be easily extracted. Wrap tissue around your fingertips, apply light pressure to the skin, gently press until extraction is complete

STEP 4: If comedone does not come out right away, leave it for another day. It might not be ready or skin is not open enough yet. It is important not to bruise or puncture the skin by applying too much pressure

STEP 5: When you finish with extractions, it is important to layer your serums to achieve deep healing and air reparative functions. Apply Hydra8 B5, Red Alert and C-tetra serums (wait for 1min between applications of serums to allow them to fully absorb into skin)

STEP 6: Depending on the climate finish with your favourite moisturiser and sun block

Could Taking Selfies Be Causing Premature Skin Aging?

Last month, “The Daily Mail” featured a story about a 26-year-old blogger who takes 50 selfies a day for her blog and saw a dermatologist to find out whether the high-energy visible (HEV) light from her mobile phone screen was causing her skin to age prematurely. The doctor, cosmetic dermatologist Simon Zokaie, believed that this was, in fact, the case. He said that the light from her phone was causing her skin to develop dark spots, and that a lot of the damage on her skin from the light was still lying dormant under her skin

Could it really be true that selfies cause skin to age more rapidly?

 

Here are our research and some findings on the topic

  • There’s no way to avoid visible light totally, but limiting time in front of your computers and smart phones can certainly help
  • Visible light has been shown to increase pigment production, leading to dark spots, whilst also promoting breakdown of collagen, which leads to wrinkles. It can also create reactive oxygen species that damage the skin and cause premature skin aging
  • UV light (sunlight) is much more harmful to skin than the light from computers and mobile devices
  • Whether or not you’re truly concerned about the light from your phone, it’s always important to
    protect your skin with sunscreen
  • There are various high potency face creams and serums specifically aimed at helping to
    prevent dark spots

Some of my favourites include the new Medik8 White Balance Oxy-R, which contains a number of skin brightening agents to balance skin tone and fade dark spots and freckles, and Skeyndor Urban White Serum, which contains AHA reduce the appearance of aging and other active ingredients to ward off hyperpigmentation.

Visit our Chadstone Melbourne store to learn more

Why my favourite products just don’t seem to work as well as they used to?

Is my skin becoming immune to them—or is it something else?

Myth 1: Retinol has a time limit

Your retinol’s only time limit is its expiration date. If you stop seeing retinol benefits, all that means is that you need to switch to a stronger dosage. Medik8’s Retonol comes in 3 strength. Ask us why?

Myth 2: If you aren’t getting red – It’s not effective

Acids and other ingredients are sometimes met with a ‘transition’ phase (that period where your skin experiences redness and reactivity). Glycolic acid has been shown to increase the skin barrier, so with prolonged use, less gets absorbed, and activity on the skin seems less. Some might think that the skin is getting used to it, but that’s the end goal – a stronger skin barrier. We have number of product in stock for any skin type and condition

Myth 3: All whiteheads are the same and can be squeezed out

Some little white bumps may have you thinking that they’re whiteheads, but thats not always the case Caused by proteins that get trapped within the skin, milia pop up in the hardest-to-cover areas like around the eyes or mouth. They may physically have the same appearance as comedones, which are fat and skin debris trapped within the pore, but milia are very different. Most people get them from a buildup of sunscreen or rich moisturizer. Whatever you do, DO NOT pick at a milia or try to extract them yourself — ask our aesthetician in Melbourne Chadstone store to take care of this one for you.

New Year’s Resolutions You CAN Achieve!

Many of us welcome a fresh start. We like to think that the New Year brings with it hope, happiness, health and an opportunity to grow. So we seize the opportunity and create a long list of ideal resolutions. Then, fast forward several weeks and many of those resolutions either never got off the ground or got ditched mid-month. This doesn’t mean it’s time to stop making resolutions.

Your resolution-making process may just need a few tweaks. Below, you’ll find a list of 5 tips that you can apply to all your resolutions, whether they’re beauty-related or not.

 

  1. Consider what really concerns you.

Think about what really matters to you. Make your goals personal, weather it may be changing your beauty regime or exercising more.

Do you want clear skin? Do you need a healthier lifestyle? Or do you simply need more beauty sleep. Surprisingly, you’re more likely to work on resolutions that are meaningful to you. It’s the small things that make a difference.  

The more invested you are in a goal, the more likely you are to keep it. Why not try writing a list of pros about your goal to keep you focused on why they’re so important to you.

  1. Be Specific.

Don’t generalize. To  have healthier skin or better hair or be more adventurous with your makeup, be specific. These grand goals don’t really tell you much about where to start or exactly what to do and you can’t measure or evaluate them.

For instance, think about what typically contributes to healthier skin. Your list may include: keeping a routine of washing your face and moisturizing every night; getting products for your skin type; using sunscreen; using anti-aging serums; getting rid of expired products; and getting enough sleep.

  1. Take baby steps.

Start by being more consistent with your daily routine. Consult skin experts on most effective skin care products for your condition. This helps in creating goals that are feasible and less overwhelming, which increases the chances that you’ll accomplish them.

  1. Manage stress.

 When we’re stressed, many good habits seem to go out the window. Feeling overwhelmed and weighed down doesn’t lend itself to the best environment for building healthy habits and accomplishing great things. So you can focus on meeting your goals, start learning healthy ways to overcome stress in advance.

  1. Reward yourself. 

Set up little rewards along the way to boost motivation. You may choose beauty-related rewards like getting a facial or massage.

 

Whatever your beauty resolutions, these 5 tips can help you stay on task and work through your goals. Remember that simple, attainable aspirations work best. You may think big — like having healthier skin or maintaining a slim beauty budget — but take baby steps. And pat yourself on the back every once in a while for working hard!

Eye creams. What to look for? Do eye creams really work?

The array of eye creams on beauty shelves can be almost overwhelming. Dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles .. We’ve been road testing the best for to find the perfect one for you

The basic overlying premise of eye creams is that products for the face and body aren’t sufficient for this very unique area. Why? Because the skin around the eyes is 10 times thinner and more delicate than the skin on our face, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles.

 

eye creams

 

Eye creams can address some of these issues. However, finding an effective eye cream can be difficult. Eye creams often advertised as “specially formulated” for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or claim to get rid of puffiness, dark circles, and sagging skin—yet, in many cases, they fail to live up to their promises.

 

What to Look for in an Eye Cream

First, it’s important to understand there’s no research indicating that specific eye-area ingredients differ from those you use on the rest of your face.

Avoid eye products that contain irritating ingredients, such as fragrant plant oils, synthetic fragrance, or sensitizing plant extracts, all of which can cause pro-aging inflammation.

What the eye area really needs are antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-repairing ingredients, in a soothing, fragrance-free formula. Hyaluronic acid (hydrates ), ceramides (retain moisture), retinol (promotes new cell growth or regeneration) and neuropeptides (increase the production of collagen and elastin), vitamin C (collagen production), and vitamin E ( nourishes and soothes skin).

Another beneficial ingredient for under the eye includes vitamin K (inhibits bruising and diminishes dark pigment or cast due to broken down blood cells). Kojic acid, arnica and licorice can diminish dark circles and lighten pigment under the eyes. Chamomile, tea extracts, and cucumber can help reduce puffiness.

 

Dark Circles, Puffy Eyes, and Sagging Skin

Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, and blood build-up. Sodium ascorbate, or vitamin C, can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, and kojic acid can also lighten dark circles.

Most importantly, during the day, whatever you put around your eye must contain sunscreen (something most eye creams lack).

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Dark Circles (15ml)Designed to improve blood haemodynamics and microcirculation, lighten dark circles and relieve bags or puffiness. $62.00
  1. Sircuit: WHITE OUT+ daily under eye care (15ml).  Improves skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Strengthens and thickens the delicate skin around the eye. $84.95

 

Fine lines and wrinkles come from both sun damage and your skin making less collagen as you age. Collagen helps maintain skin’s elasticity. Studies show that Vitamin C, peptides, and retinol have the ability to boost collagen production. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid also help; these are moisturizers that help prevent water loss in the skin and improve elasticity. Note you can tighten and firm skin to a certain degree, but no skincare product can magically pull up drooping eyelids or sagging under-eye bags.

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Retinol Eye. Boosts firmness, plumpness and epidermal hydration under and around the eye. $84.95
  2. Eyesential. Quick and temporary fix to the area around the eye. Not a permanent repair so it is actually classified as a non-colour cosmetic rather that a treatment. $95
  3. Sircuit: I. CEE U.+ firming anti-aging eye gel (15ml)Helps instantly lift and revitalise the look of tired eyes. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and crow’s feet. $144.95

 

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid and blood under the eyes or can be from simply not getting enough sleep. Some studies show that caffeine can help circulation, which could reduce puffiness, whilst other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams.

We recommend

  1. CosMedix: Eye Genius Brilliant Eye Complex (7ml)A firming eye cream to renew the delicate skin around the eyes. $79.95
  2. Skeyndor Aquatherm: Soothing Eye Cream (15ml). When used daily, it softens the eye contour and rejuvenates the eye area. $65.00

If the puffiness is the result of fat pads that have shifted under the eye (which is a hallmark of aging skin), there are no creams in the world that can address it

Rosacea and skin redness

Facts about the condition:

  • Skin redness, which can also be Rosacea, is one of the most annoying skin problems, effecting more than 45 million people worldwide
  • Although redness can develop in people of any skin color, it generally occurs most frequently and is most apparent in people with fair skin
  • It typically starts after 30 years of age, is more common in women (particularly during menopause) but more severe in men
  • Left untreated, it can even cause deformities
  • Uneven skin redness usually appears on the face (forehead/nose/cheeks/chin) and usually begins with a tendency to flush and blush. This can progress to permanent redness and increased skin sensitivity
  • Redness can sometimes progresses to chest area

Main causes include:

  • Sun damage
  • Over sensitising skin
  • Hormonal or hereditary nature
  • Stress
  • Incorrectly prescribed or used skin care/ makeup or sensitivity to some of the ingredients in the products

 

Skin needs:

A combination of treatments and skincare that is suited to an individual’s pattern of skin redness. Focusing mainly on reducing inflammation, regulating blood vessel proliferation and trying to reduce trigger factors.

 

Dermal factors for skin redness include:

  • Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy acid). Rosacea can often display skin bumps formed by a build up of keratin around the hair follicle. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic action, which functions by softening the build-up of dead skin (keratin). Salicylic acid clears the pores, helps with inflammation and increases the cellular turnover, making it a very useful treatment for skin conditions like rosacea, especially when there is an acne component
  • Vitamin A (retinol):  improving barrier function, reducing epidermal thickening, regulating exfoliation and helping control excess oil and acne eruptions. Vitamin A can improve erythema (redness) and is also known to improve the appearance of telangiectasia.
  • Niacinamide – Topical Vitamin B (niacinamide) can greatly diminish the blushing and flushing commonly associated with rosacea and skin redness. Topical niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin and decrease the redness associated with rosacea flare ups.
  • Vitamin K— decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasia, aka spider veins
  • Vitamin C— has been shown to strengthen the capillary walls, thereby decreasing the chances of further damage

 

 

Home Care

We recommend a separate routine for morning and evening, simply because your skin’s needs differ from day to night.

 

During the day, you want to focus on giving your skin protection from the sun and environmental abuse, whilst providing lightweight hydration under makeup

  1. Cleanse: MEDIK8 RedAlert Cleanse – contains Teprenone, Vitamin K1 and calming organic orange oil to soothe the skin, and cleanse deep within the pores removing impurities and make-up.
  2. Prevent: MEDIK8 Firewall – neutralizes a broad spectrum of free-radicals , and acts in unison with sunscreen to protect collagen and elastin, while supporting new collagen production. Also helps to prevent future sun damage
  3. Correct: MEDIK8 Redness Corrector – advanced neutralising cream formulated as a complete ‘anti-redness’ product with 6 targeted actions to instantly reduce redness, treat inflammation and prevent the appearance of future breakouts. Reduces the burning sensation and skin discomfort associated with redness, and prevents future reactions by reducing skin reactivity. The moisturizing and protecting formula also provides instant coverage as mineral green pigments counterbalance the red discolouration.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8B5 – this lightweight and easily-absorbed hydrating gel delivers skin-softening Pantotheic Acid (vitamin B5) and moisture-enhancing Hyaluronic Acid to produce rapid and significant improvements in the general condition and feel of the skin.
  5. SPF: O’COSMEDICS Mineral Pro – provides true broad spectrum protection, preventing skin damage as well as assisting skin healing and reducing inflammation
  6. Coverup/Camouflage:  Lycogel  / Oxygenetics – calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective cover up

 

In the evening, your skin is at rest and in its “repair” mode, trying to heal the environmental damage that occurred during the day. You want to focus on calming, healing, removing surface dry skin cells and absorption of performance products.

  1. Cleanse: SIRCUIT X Trap – non-drying, mild cleansing agents restore balance, elasticity, and tone. Formulated with Organic Shea Butter to soften and smooth the skin and L-Alpha Bisabolol to calm, soothe, and help heal
  2. Heal: COSMEDIX Define – fortified with gentle, non-irritating acids and 2% AGP Complex, this resurfacing treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production for a dynamic yet well-tolerated level of skin remodeling.
  3. Correct: SKEYNDOR SOS Anti Redness – enriched with plant extracts helping to improve the appearance of rosacea and persistent redness, and provides freshness and immediate relief to the feeling of tightness and redness in sensitive skins.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8 Night – acked with superior anti-aging actives such as Resveratrol for cell longevity, and Beta-Glucan for skin texture renewal, Hyrd8 Night will help reverse the signs of skin aging and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

 

Treatment Plan

Light based treatments such as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL ) are effective in treating the capillary blood vessels (telangiectasia) as well as reducing the appearance of redness in the skin. While there is no cure for rosacea, effective treatment options do exist and can be tailored to the symptoms and severity. It is important to recognize and avoid trigger factors

 

Q&A

What ingredients in skin care has to be avoided and what to look for?

When selecting a skin care product, pay close attention to the ingredients and avoid chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, which can strip the epidermis of its natural oils. Inflamed skin calls for a gentle formula with a natural moisturizing factor, such as that which is found in chirally correct L-lactic acid, to effectively restore epidermal regularity. Similarly, toners and serums that contain hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E will calm, soothe and support the skin, as well as mildly exfoliate dead skin cells.

In surveys conducted by the National Rosacea Society, many patients cited the following ingredients as triggers for irritation: alcohol (66 percent), witch hazel (30 percent), fragrance (30 percent), menthol (21 percent), peppermint (14 percent) and eucalyptus oil (13 percent). Most respondents said they avoided astringents, exfoliating agents and other types of products that may be too harsh for sensitive skin.

 

What are different types of rosacea?

There are 4 subtypes recognized by the US National Rosacea Society

1.       ERYTHEMATOTELANGIECTATIC ROSACEA: this type of rosacea is characterized by stinging and facial redness on the nose and cheeks. It may or may not be seen along with broken capillaries. These symptoms come and go depending on the individual’s trigger factors. Roughness, facial swelling and a grainy skin texture may also accompany the other symptoms

2.       PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea resembles acne although it differs because there are no clogged pores or comedones on the skin. Larger than normal pimples occur mainly on the upper cheeks and nose along with intense redness. Stinging, burning and a dehydrated surface appearance may also occur

3.       PHYMATOUS ROSACEA: This type of rosacea shows up as thickened skin and enlargement of the nose (Rhinophyma) and other parts of the face. This type of rosacea is more often seen in men, although rosacea in general is found most often in women

4.       OCULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea occurs on the eyelids and in the eye resulting in swollen eyelids, lumps and cysts in the lids, bloodshot eyes and vision difficulty

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