Tag Archives: collagen

Is it Okay to mix skin care items?

Could your daily beauty routine be putting your skin at risk? Do you know which ingredients you should never combine to reduce your risk of skin irritation and pigmentation?

Incompatible ingredients or different pH ranges can irritate skin and lead to breakouts, rashes or topical skin dermatitis

Don’ts of skin care cocktailing

Don’t mix vitamin C with …

  1. Alphahydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Taking into account that both vitamin C and AHAs are acid-based overloading your skin with too many acid based-ingredients increases your chances of redness, peeling and skin irritation. Some AHAs even come with instructions to wash it off after a certain amount of time so that the skin can accommodate and tolerate it.

  1. Copper Peptides

Copper peptides help to encourage elastin and collagen formation, making it necessary for wound healing. But when used with vitamin C, the effects of each are cancelled out, rendering the benefits useless.

  1. Retinol

When mixing Retinol (vitamin A) with Vitamin C (especially high concentrations, 10% or higher) can cause the skin to become dry and even feel sensitive. However, there are some topical products that contain both ingredients, but chances are they contain low concentrations of each, making them safe to use.

 

Don’t mix Retinol with…

  1. Benzoyl Peroxide

Retinol and benzoyl peroxide can ward off acne and prevent the formation of new blemishes, but when used simultaneously, they can counteract each other’s benefits. Both are drying, exfoliating, peeling agents, and when they’re mixed together, they can cause excessive peeling, unwanted pigment, lasting redness and even blistering and scarring

  1. AHAs

Both retinol and AHAs can help to generate new collagen, but be careful when using them together. If your skin is sensitive alternate, applying the AHA in the morning and retinol at night for the first few weeks so a tolerance can be built. Essential for both retinoid and AHA to use a daily sunscreen as well, since both cause UV sensitivity.

Role of sunscreen

Your normal skin care regime of cleanser and moisturizer won’t interfere with the SPF effectiveness and shouldn’t irritate your skin. You can even layer on an antioxidant serum to boost your UV protection.

Irrespective of the ingredients you are using or which ones you are mixing to get added skin benefits always remember to add a daily sunscreen SPF 30 or higher that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

 

The bottom line

Most of the time mixing skin care items is okay, just be careful not to overuse one type of ingredient or layer ingredients that counteract with each other. To avoid unwanted side effects, keep your routine basic. Stick to one active ingredient in the morning and another one at night.

Erasing the signs of ageing

Wrinkles… What are they?

Wrinkles (aka smile lines, frown lines, crows feet, folds and skin cracks /and tracks) are an inevitable part of life. Love them, hate them – you cant really stop them…. well…. not forever anyway….

Some lines are the result of aging of the skin. Others come about due to muscle movement (they are also referred to as expression lines or mimic lines).  The process which controls wrinkle onset and development happens in the dermis.

Dermis is the middle layer of the skin and it contains the structural elements of the skin collagen and elastin. These elements along with a few other processes are responsible for elasticity, strength, firmness and integrity of our skin and give it structure and “body”.

 

Choosing the right wrinkle fighters

Because sometimes collagen building skin care ingredients can be irritating and tricky to use, you need to understand how to best use them for your skin.

They each have pros and cons that you need to understand in order to choose the one that’s right for you. It is best to consult your skin care professional to help you build the skin care routine to support your cells as they adjust to these powerful wrinkle fighting products. Serums are a wonderful to build a support base for anti-wrinkle creams. Let’s check out the top 4 serums and top 4 creams that will enhance one another’s actions and help in the anti wrinkle fight

TOP 4  anti-wrinkles serums:

  1. M8 HYDRA8 B5 SERUM – A light weight and easily absorbed hydrating serum that softens, hydrates and improves the general condition of the skin. Contains Vitamin B5 and Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a moisturising active that holds 1000 times its own weight in water, providing 24 hour non-stop hydration.
  2. M8 CE-THIONEA rechargeable vitamin C that minimises the formation of age spots for a visibly brighter skin tone and improving overall firmness. Also contains 15% L-Ascorbic acid which stimulates our collagen production.
  3. M8 RETINOL 3tr/6tr/10tr –  Retinol is considered the most effective product to help with signs of aging. Not only does it stimulate the production of collagen but also increases epidermal hyaluronic acid, improving appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin roughness and loss of tone. Over all it gives you a more youthful glow. Always starting with lower strengths and building your skin up to tolerate higher percentages of vitamin A.
  4. SKEYNDOR CORRECTIVE – Skeyndor corrective creams are formulated to smooth out the expression lines from the face. This unique cream can be used day and/or night and is more suitable for dry, mature skin. It has skin-lifting peptides with pre- synaptic activity, “Viper venom” – reduces wrinkle depth & softens wrinkle contour

 

TOP 4 anti-wrinkle creams:

  1. Mesoestetics Collagen 360 – Performs a dual action, it maintains the natural collagen amino acid profile and stimulates the formation of new collagen. Made with Hydrolyzed collagen (collagen made in the lab) which is compatible with our skin cells allowing it to stimulate cells that are involved in collagen synthesis.
  2. M8 Hyrd8 Night – A rich fast absorbing night treatment that helps to reverse the skin aging effects of the glycation process. Resveratrol is a new active ingredient that promotes cell longevity which helps to improve tired skin overnight.
  3. M8 Hyrd8 360 A rich nourishing moisturiser that combats visible signs of aging. Has advanced active ingredients that reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Gives UVA and UVB protection that helps prevent skin ageing providing an intensive moisturising and revitalising effect in a unique treatment formulation to target the process of glycation.
  4. Mesoestetics Radiance DNA intensive cream – Ultimate antiaging cream. It preserves DNA Integrity. It stimulates the activity of those genes responsible of DNA repair which slows down premature aging, it also neutralises free radicals which delays the skin aging process.

 

And lastly you can turn on your collagen producing cells faster by synergetic approach in-clinic treatments and by home-use products. Professional in house antiaging treatments will stimulate production of collagen in a much faster way but home products will enhance and support the results of treatments. Or visit our Chadstone Melbourne store to learn more

Could Taking Selfies Be Causing Premature Skin Aging?

Last month, “The Daily Mail” featured a story about a 26-year-old blogger who takes 50 selfies a day for her blog and saw a dermatologist to find out whether the high-energy visible (HEV) light from her mobile phone screen was causing her skin to age prematurely. The doctor, cosmetic dermatologist Simon Zokaie, believed that this was, in fact, the case. He said that the light from her phone was causing her skin to develop dark spots, and that a lot of the damage on her skin from the light was still lying dormant under her skin

Could it really be true that selfies cause skin to age more rapidly?

 

Here are our research and some findings on the topic

  • There’s no way to avoid visible light totally, but limiting time in front of your computers and smart phones can certainly help
  • Visible light has been shown to increase pigment production, leading to dark spots, whilst also promoting breakdown of collagen, which leads to wrinkles. It can also create reactive oxygen species that damage the skin and cause premature skin aging
  • UV light (sunlight) is much more harmful to skin than the light from computers and mobile devices
  • Whether or not you’re truly concerned about the light from your phone, it’s always important to
    protect your skin with sunscreen
  • There are various high potency face creams and serums specifically aimed at helping to
    prevent dark spots

Some of my favourites include the new Medik8 White Balance Oxy-R, which contains a number of skin brightening agents to balance skin tone and fade dark spots and freckles, and Skeyndor Urban White Serum, which contains AHA reduce the appearance of aging and other active ingredients to ward off hyperpigmentation.

Visit our Chadstone Melbourne store to learn more

Eye creams. What to look for? Do eye creams really work?

The array of eye creams on beauty shelves can be almost overwhelming. Dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles .. We’ve been road testing the best for to find the perfect one for you

The basic overlying premise of eye creams is that products for the face and body aren’t sufficient for this very unique area. Why? Because the skin around the eyes is 10 times thinner and more delicate than the skin on our face, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles.

 

eye creams

 

Eye creams can address some of these issues. However, finding an effective eye cream can be difficult. Eye creams often advertised as “specially formulated” for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or claim to get rid of puffiness, dark circles, and sagging skin—yet, in many cases, they fail to live up to their promises.

 

What to Look for in an Eye Cream

First, it’s important to understand there’s no research indicating that specific eye-area ingredients differ from those you use on the rest of your face.

Avoid eye products that contain irritating ingredients, such as fragrant plant oils, synthetic fragrance, or sensitizing plant extracts, all of which can cause pro-aging inflammation.

What the eye area really needs are antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-repairing ingredients, in a soothing, fragrance-free formula. Hyaluronic acid (hydrates ), ceramides (retain moisture), retinol (promotes new cell growth or regeneration) and neuropeptides (increase the production of collagen and elastin), vitamin C (collagen production), and vitamin E ( nourishes and soothes skin).

Another beneficial ingredient for under the eye includes vitamin K (inhibits bruising and diminishes dark pigment or cast due to broken down blood cells). Kojic acid, arnica and licorice can diminish dark circles and lighten pigment under the eyes. Chamomile, tea extracts, and cucumber can help reduce puffiness.

 

Dark Circles, Puffy Eyes, and Sagging Skin

Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, and blood build-up. Sodium ascorbate, or vitamin C, can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, and kojic acid can also lighten dark circles.

Most importantly, during the day, whatever you put around your eye must contain sunscreen (something most eye creams lack).

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Dark Circles (15ml)Designed to improve blood haemodynamics and microcirculation, lighten dark circles and relieve bags or puffiness. $62.00
  1. Sircuit: WHITE OUT+ daily under eye care (15ml).  Improves skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Strengthens and thickens the delicate skin around the eye. $84.95

 

Fine lines and wrinkles come from both sun damage and your skin making less collagen as you age. Collagen helps maintain skin’s elasticity. Studies show that Vitamin C, peptides, and retinol have the ability to boost collagen production. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid also help; these are moisturizers that help prevent water loss in the skin and improve elasticity. Note you can tighten and firm skin to a certain degree, but no skincare product can magically pull up drooping eyelids or sagging under-eye bags.

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Retinol Eye. Boosts firmness, plumpness and epidermal hydration under and around the eye. $84.95
  2. Eyesential. Quick and temporary fix to the area around the eye. Not a permanent repair so it is actually classified as a non-colour cosmetic rather that a treatment. $95
  3. Sircuit: I. CEE U.+ firming anti-aging eye gel (15ml)Helps instantly lift and revitalise the look of tired eyes. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and crow’s feet. $144.95

 

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid and blood under the eyes or can be from simply not getting enough sleep. Some studies show that caffeine can help circulation, which could reduce puffiness, whilst other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams.

We recommend

  1. CosMedix: Eye Genius Brilliant Eye Complex (7ml)A firming eye cream to renew the delicate skin around the eyes. $79.95
  2. Skeyndor Aquatherm: Soothing Eye Cream (15ml). When used daily, it softens the eye contour and rejuvenates the eye area. $65.00

If the puffiness is the result of fat pads that have shifted under the eye (which is a hallmark of aging skin), there are no creams in the world that can address it

Rosacea and skin redness

Facts about the condition:

  • Skin redness, which can also be Rosacea, is one of the most annoying skin problems, effecting more than 45 million people worldwide
  • Although redness can develop in people of any skin color, it generally occurs most frequently and is most apparent in people with fair skin
  • It typically starts after 30 years of age, is more common in women (particularly during menopause) but more severe in men
  • Left untreated, it can even cause deformities
  • Uneven skin redness usually appears on the face (forehead/nose/cheeks/chin) and usually begins with a tendency to flush and blush. This can progress to permanent redness and increased skin sensitivity
  • Redness can sometimes progresses to chest area

Main causes include:

  • Sun damage
  • Over sensitising skin
  • Hormonal or hereditary nature
  • Stress
  • Incorrectly prescribed or used skin care/ makeup or sensitivity to some of the ingredients in the products

 

Skin needs:

A combination of treatments and skincare that is suited to an individual’s pattern of skin redness. Focusing mainly on reducing inflammation, regulating blood vessel proliferation and trying to reduce trigger factors.

 

Dermal factors for skin redness include:

  • Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy acid). Rosacea can often display skin bumps formed by a build up of keratin around the hair follicle. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic action, which functions by softening the build-up of dead skin (keratin). Salicylic acid clears the pores, helps with inflammation and increases the cellular turnover, making it a very useful treatment for skin conditions like rosacea, especially when there is an acne component
  • Vitamin A (retinol):  improving barrier function, reducing epidermal thickening, regulating exfoliation and helping control excess oil and acne eruptions. Vitamin A can improve erythema (redness) and is also known to improve the appearance of telangiectasia.
  • Niacinamide – Topical Vitamin B (niacinamide) can greatly diminish the blushing and flushing commonly associated with rosacea and skin redness. Topical niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin and decrease the redness associated with rosacea flare ups.
  • Vitamin K— decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasia, aka spider veins
  • Vitamin C— has been shown to strengthen the capillary walls, thereby decreasing the chances of further damage

 

 

Home Care

We recommend a separate routine for morning and evening, simply because your skin’s needs differ from day to night.

 

During the day, you want to focus on giving your skin protection from the sun and environmental abuse, whilst providing lightweight hydration under makeup

  1. Cleanse: MEDIK8 RedAlert Cleanse – contains Teprenone, Vitamin K1 and calming organic orange oil to soothe the skin, and cleanse deep within the pores removing impurities and make-up.
  2. Prevent: MEDIK8 Firewall – neutralizes a broad spectrum of free-radicals , and acts in unison with sunscreen to protect collagen and elastin, while supporting new collagen production. Also helps to prevent future sun damage
  3. Correct: MEDIK8 Redness Corrector – advanced neutralising cream formulated as a complete ‘anti-redness’ product with 6 targeted actions to instantly reduce redness, treat inflammation and prevent the appearance of future breakouts. Reduces the burning sensation and skin discomfort associated with redness, and prevents future reactions by reducing skin reactivity. The moisturizing and protecting formula also provides instant coverage as mineral green pigments counterbalance the red discolouration.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8B5 – this lightweight and easily-absorbed hydrating gel delivers skin-softening Pantotheic Acid (vitamin B5) and moisture-enhancing Hyaluronic Acid to produce rapid and significant improvements in the general condition and feel of the skin.
  5. SPF: O’COSMEDICS Mineral Pro – provides true broad spectrum protection, preventing skin damage as well as assisting skin healing and reducing inflammation
  6. Coverup/Camouflage:  Lycogel  / Oxygenetics – calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective cover up

 

In the evening, your skin is at rest and in its “repair” mode, trying to heal the environmental damage that occurred during the day. You want to focus on calming, healing, removing surface dry skin cells and absorption of performance products.

  1. Cleanse: SIRCUIT X Trap – non-drying, mild cleansing agents restore balance, elasticity, and tone. Formulated with Organic Shea Butter to soften and smooth the skin and L-Alpha Bisabolol to calm, soothe, and help heal
  2. Heal: COSMEDIX Define – fortified with gentle, non-irritating acids and 2% AGP Complex, this resurfacing treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production for a dynamic yet well-tolerated level of skin remodeling.
  3. Correct: SKEYNDOR SOS Anti Redness – enriched with plant extracts helping to improve the appearance of rosacea and persistent redness, and provides freshness and immediate relief to the feeling of tightness and redness in sensitive skins.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8 Night – acked with superior anti-aging actives such as Resveratrol for cell longevity, and Beta-Glucan for skin texture renewal, Hyrd8 Night will help reverse the signs of skin aging and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

 

Treatment Plan

Light based treatments such as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL ) are effective in treating the capillary blood vessels (telangiectasia) as well as reducing the appearance of redness in the skin. While there is no cure for rosacea, effective treatment options do exist and can be tailored to the symptoms and severity. It is important to recognize and avoid trigger factors

 

Q&A

What ingredients in skin care has to be avoided and what to look for?

When selecting a skin care product, pay close attention to the ingredients and avoid chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, which can strip the epidermis of its natural oils. Inflamed skin calls for a gentle formula with a natural moisturizing factor, such as that which is found in chirally correct L-lactic acid, to effectively restore epidermal regularity. Similarly, toners and serums that contain hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E will calm, soothe and support the skin, as well as mildly exfoliate dead skin cells.

In surveys conducted by the National Rosacea Society, many patients cited the following ingredients as triggers for irritation: alcohol (66 percent), witch hazel (30 percent), fragrance (30 percent), menthol (21 percent), peppermint (14 percent) and eucalyptus oil (13 percent). Most respondents said they avoided astringents, exfoliating agents and other types of products that may be too harsh for sensitive skin.

 

What are different types of rosacea?

There are 4 subtypes recognized by the US National Rosacea Society

1.       ERYTHEMATOTELANGIECTATIC ROSACEA: this type of rosacea is characterized by stinging and facial redness on the nose and cheeks. It may or may not be seen along with broken capillaries. These symptoms come and go depending on the individual’s trigger factors. Roughness, facial swelling and a grainy skin texture may also accompany the other symptoms

2.       PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea resembles acne although it differs because there are no clogged pores or comedones on the skin. Larger than normal pimples occur mainly on the upper cheeks and nose along with intense redness. Stinging, burning and a dehydrated surface appearance may also occur

3.       PHYMATOUS ROSACEA: This type of rosacea shows up as thickened skin and enlargement of the nose (Rhinophyma) and other parts of the face. This type of rosacea is more often seen in men, although rosacea in general is found most often in women

4.       OCULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea occurs on the eyelids and in the eye resulting in swollen eyelids, lumps and cysts in the lids, bloodshot eyes and vision difficulty

Request Free 10 min SKYPE Skin Consult when Ordered over $150