Tag Archives: elastin

Eye creams. What to look for? Do eye creams really work?

The array of eye creams on beauty shelves can be almost overwhelming. Dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles .. We’ve been road testing the best for to find the perfect one for you

The basic overlying premise of eye creams is that products for the face and body aren’t sufficient for this very unique area. Why? Because the skin around the eyes is 10 times thinner and more delicate than the skin on our face, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles.

 

eye creams

 

Eye creams can address some of these issues. However, finding an effective eye cream can be difficult. Eye creams often advertised as “specially formulated” for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or claim to get rid of puffiness, dark circles, and sagging skin—yet, in many cases, they fail to live up to their promises.

 

What to Look for in an Eye Cream

First, it’s important to understand there’s no research indicating that specific eye-area ingredients differ from those you use on the rest of your face.

Avoid eye products that contain irritating ingredients, such as fragrant plant oils, synthetic fragrance, or sensitizing plant extracts, all of which can cause pro-aging inflammation.

What the eye area really needs are antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-repairing ingredients, in a soothing, fragrance-free formula. Hyaluronic acid (hydrates ), ceramides (retain moisture), retinol (promotes new cell growth or regeneration) and neuropeptides (increase the production of collagen and elastin), vitamin C (collagen production), and vitamin E ( nourishes and soothes skin).

Another beneficial ingredient for under the eye includes vitamin K (inhibits bruising and diminishes dark pigment or cast due to broken down blood cells). Kojic acid, arnica and licorice can diminish dark circles and lighten pigment under the eyes. Chamomile, tea extracts, and cucumber can help reduce puffiness.

 

Dark Circles, Puffy Eyes, and Sagging Skin

Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, and blood build-up. Sodium ascorbate, or vitamin C, can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, and kojic acid can also lighten dark circles.

Most importantly, during the day, whatever you put around your eye must contain sunscreen (something most eye creams lack).

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Dark Circles (15ml)Designed to improve blood haemodynamics and microcirculation, lighten dark circles and relieve bags or puffiness. $62.00
  1. Sircuit: WHITE OUT+ daily under eye care (15ml).  Improves skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Strengthens and thickens the delicate skin around the eye. $84.95

 

Fine lines and wrinkles come from both sun damage and your skin making less collagen as you age. Collagen helps maintain skin’s elasticity. Studies show that Vitamin C, peptides, and retinol have the ability to boost collagen production. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid also help; these are moisturizers that help prevent water loss in the skin and improve elasticity. Note you can tighten and firm skin to a certain degree, but no skincare product can magically pull up drooping eyelids or sagging under-eye bags.

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Retinol Eye. Boosts firmness, plumpness and epidermal hydration under and around the eye. $84.95
  2. Eyesential. Quick and temporary fix to the area around the eye. Not a permanent repair so it is actually classified as a non-colour cosmetic rather that a treatment. $95
  3. Sircuit: I. CEE U.+ firming anti-aging eye gel (15ml)Helps instantly lift and revitalise the look of tired eyes. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and crow’s feet. $144.95

 

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid and blood under the eyes or can be from simply not getting enough sleep. Some studies show that caffeine can help circulation, which could reduce puffiness, whilst other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams.

We recommend

  1. CosMedix: Eye Genius Brilliant Eye Complex (7ml)A firming eye cream to renew the delicate skin around the eyes. $79.95
  2. Skeyndor Aquatherm: Soothing Eye Cream (15ml). When used daily, it softens the eye contour and rejuvenates the eye area. $65.00

If the puffiness is the result of fat pads that have shifted under the eye (which is a hallmark of aging skin), there are no creams in the world that can address it

Rosacea and skin redness

Facts about the condition:

  • Skin redness, which can also be Rosacea, is one of the most annoying skin problems, effecting more than 45 million people worldwide
  • Although redness can develop in people of any skin color, it generally occurs most frequently and is most apparent in people with fair skin
  • It typically starts after 30 years of age, is more common in women (particularly during menopause) but more severe in men
  • Left untreated, it can even cause deformities
  • Uneven skin redness usually appears on the face (forehead/nose/cheeks/chin) and usually begins with a tendency to flush and blush. This can progress to permanent redness and increased skin sensitivity
  • Redness can sometimes progresses to chest area

Main causes include:

  • Sun damage
  • Over sensitising skin
  • Hormonal or hereditary nature
  • Stress
  • Incorrectly prescribed or used skin care/ makeup or sensitivity to some of the ingredients in the products

 

Skin needs:

A combination of treatments and skincare that is suited to an individual’s pattern of skin redness. Focusing mainly on reducing inflammation, regulating blood vessel proliferation and trying to reduce trigger factors.

 

Dermal factors for skin redness include:

  • Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy acid). Rosacea can often display skin bumps formed by a build up of keratin around the hair follicle. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic action, which functions by softening the build-up of dead skin (keratin). Salicylic acid clears the pores, helps with inflammation and increases the cellular turnover, making it a very useful treatment for skin conditions like rosacea, especially when there is an acne component
  • Vitamin A (retinol):  improving barrier function, reducing epidermal thickening, regulating exfoliation and helping control excess oil and acne eruptions. Vitamin A can improve erythema (redness) and is also known to improve the appearance of telangiectasia.
  • Niacinamide – Topical Vitamin B (niacinamide) can greatly diminish the blushing and flushing commonly associated with rosacea and skin redness. Topical niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin and decrease the redness associated with rosacea flare ups.
  • Vitamin K— decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasia, aka spider veins
  • Vitamin C— has been shown to strengthen the capillary walls, thereby decreasing the chances of further damage

 

 

Home Care

We recommend a separate routine for morning and evening, simply because your skin’s needs differ from day to night.

 

During the day, you want to focus on giving your skin protection from the sun and environmental abuse, whilst providing lightweight hydration under makeup

  1. Cleanse: MEDIK8 RedAlert Cleanse – contains Teprenone, Vitamin K1 and calming organic orange oil to soothe the skin, and cleanse deep within the pores removing impurities and make-up.
  2. Prevent: MEDIK8 Firewall – neutralizes a broad spectrum of free-radicals , and acts in unison with sunscreen to protect collagen and elastin, while supporting new collagen production. Also helps to prevent future sun damage
  3. Correct: MEDIK8 Redness Corrector – advanced neutralising cream formulated as a complete ‘anti-redness’ product with 6 targeted actions to instantly reduce redness, treat inflammation and prevent the appearance of future breakouts. Reduces the burning sensation and skin discomfort associated with redness, and prevents future reactions by reducing skin reactivity. The moisturizing and protecting formula also provides instant coverage as mineral green pigments counterbalance the red discolouration.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8B5 – this lightweight and easily-absorbed hydrating gel delivers skin-softening Pantotheic Acid (vitamin B5) and moisture-enhancing Hyaluronic Acid to produce rapid and significant improvements in the general condition and feel of the skin.
  5. SPF: O’COSMEDICS Mineral Pro – provides true broad spectrum protection, preventing skin damage as well as assisting skin healing and reducing inflammation
  6. Coverup/Camouflage:  Lycogel  / Oxygenetics – calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective cover up

 

In the evening, your skin is at rest and in its “repair” mode, trying to heal the environmental damage that occurred during the day. You want to focus on calming, healing, removing surface dry skin cells and absorption of performance products.

  1. Cleanse: SIRCUIT X Trap – non-drying, mild cleansing agents restore balance, elasticity, and tone. Formulated with Organic Shea Butter to soften and smooth the skin and L-Alpha Bisabolol to calm, soothe, and help heal
  2. Heal: COSMEDIX Define – fortified with gentle, non-irritating acids and 2% AGP Complex, this resurfacing treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production for a dynamic yet well-tolerated level of skin remodeling.
  3. Correct: SKEYNDOR SOS Anti Redness – enriched with plant extracts helping to improve the appearance of rosacea and persistent redness, and provides freshness and immediate relief to the feeling of tightness and redness in sensitive skins.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8 Night – acked with superior anti-aging actives such as Resveratrol for cell longevity, and Beta-Glucan for skin texture renewal, Hyrd8 Night will help reverse the signs of skin aging and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

 

Treatment Plan

Light based treatments such as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL ) are effective in treating the capillary blood vessels (telangiectasia) as well as reducing the appearance of redness in the skin. While there is no cure for rosacea, effective treatment options do exist and can be tailored to the symptoms and severity. It is important to recognize and avoid trigger factors

 

Q&A

What ingredients in skin care has to be avoided and what to look for?

When selecting a skin care product, pay close attention to the ingredients and avoid chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, which can strip the epidermis of its natural oils. Inflamed skin calls for a gentle formula with a natural moisturizing factor, such as that which is found in chirally correct L-lactic acid, to effectively restore epidermal regularity. Similarly, toners and serums that contain hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E will calm, soothe and support the skin, as well as mildly exfoliate dead skin cells.

In surveys conducted by the National Rosacea Society, many patients cited the following ingredients as triggers for irritation: alcohol (66 percent), witch hazel (30 percent), fragrance (30 percent), menthol (21 percent), peppermint (14 percent) and eucalyptus oil (13 percent). Most respondents said they avoided astringents, exfoliating agents and other types of products that may be too harsh for sensitive skin.

 

What are different types of rosacea?

There are 4 subtypes recognized by the US National Rosacea Society

1.       ERYTHEMATOTELANGIECTATIC ROSACEA: this type of rosacea is characterized by stinging and facial redness on the nose and cheeks. It may or may not be seen along with broken capillaries. These symptoms come and go depending on the individual’s trigger factors. Roughness, facial swelling and a grainy skin texture may also accompany the other symptoms

2.       PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea resembles acne although it differs because there are no clogged pores or comedones on the skin. Larger than normal pimples occur mainly on the upper cheeks and nose along with intense redness. Stinging, burning and a dehydrated surface appearance may also occur

3.       PHYMATOUS ROSACEA: This type of rosacea shows up as thickened skin and enlargement of the nose (Rhinophyma) and other parts of the face. This type of rosacea is more often seen in men, although rosacea in general is found most often in women

4.       OCULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea occurs on the eyelids and in the eye resulting in swollen eyelids, lumps and cysts in the lids, bloodshot eyes and vision difficulty

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