Tag Archives: retinol

Are you ruining your skin? Retin-A for acne & anti-agening

Check out these – a few little known facts about RETIN-A

1) Active ingredient in Retin A breaks down in sunlight

2) Applying Retin-A to moist skin causes more peeling & skin irritation

3) Some of the most common ingredients found in skin care products aren’t compatible with retinols

 

Now, that we got that out of the way – it is fair to say that

if used correctly, retinol can do amazing things for your skin!

It is known as the king of anti ageing. It is also the best acne warrior known to man! (what do you think roaccutane is made of??)

 

Medik8 has developed a unique encapsulated, time release system for Retinol products. This not only enhances stability and freshness, but also prevents the usually high irritation caused to skin from higher concentrations of retinol by maintaining a slow, but continuous delivery of the active ingredient. The results are fast with no skin irritation.

Medik8’s Retinol range comes in 3 different strengths:
Retinol 3TR, Retinol 6TR, and Retinol 10TR

*Note Retinol 10TR is only recommended for those skins acclimatised already to Vitamin A products. If you have never used Retinol before, then it is wise to start with minimum strength and build it up.

Tips and tricks for Retinol beginners:

  • Apply it to your skin at bedtime, never use it during the day
  • Never combine with products containing ingredients such as glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide
  • Always wait at least 15 to 30 minutes after cleansing your skin and applying any other skin care products before you apply retinol

What else will help your skin to tolerate retinol for anti wrinkle therapy?

  1. Start Retinol therapy by using the product twice a week (every third night) and slowly increase to every night over a month or two as your skin adjusts. A little scaliness and irritation is normal at first, but if the treated skin becomes really sensitive, back off and wait. Let the skin return to normal then begin treatment again. Slowly try to increase to every night as your skin adjusts.
  2. Apply a ‘pearl-sized‘ portion to the face. Use the same amount for the neck and/or chest.
  3. If your skin continues to become irritated and just won’t adjust to retinol treatment, then switch to entirely non-irritating cleansers like Medik8 Red Alert. Many cleansers are too irritating for retinol treated skin.
  4. Tell your skin care specialist before performing a procedure such as a chemical peel, microdermabrasion, laser or any other light treatments that you using retinol. They may ask you to stop it for a period of time before and after your treatment.
  5. Always protect your skin from the sun to avoid undesirable sun damage.

 

Why use Retinol skin care?

Scientific studies and my skin care experience has given me so many reasons to be a big fan of Retinol!

  • It has proven itself to reduce, reverse, and prevent wrinkles. The younger a person starts (teens and twenties), the more benefit they receive, but it’s never too late!
  • It helps lighten and prevent age spots
  • It builds collagen to thicken and increase the structural strength of treated skin
  • Skin just looks better and younger when they use retinol

Why my favourite products just don’t seem to work as well as they used to?

Is my skin becoming immune to them—or is it something else?

Myth 1: Retinol has a time limit

Your retinol’s only time limit is its expiration date. If you stop seeing retinol benefits, all that means is that you need to switch to a stronger dosage. Medik8’s Retonol comes in 3 strength. Ask us why?

Myth 2: If you aren’t getting red – It’s not effective

Acids and other ingredients are sometimes met with a ‘transition’ phase (that period where your skin experiences redness and reactivity). Glycolic acid has been shown to increase the skin barrier, so with prolonged use, less gets absorbed, and activity on the skin seems less. Some might think that the skin is getting used to it, but that’s the end goal – a stronger skin barrier. We have number of product in stock for any skin type and condition

Myth 3: All whiteheads are the same and can be squeezed out

Some little white bumps may have you thinking that they’re whiteheads, but thats not always the case Caused by proteins that get trapped within the skin, milia pop up in the hardest-to-cover areas like around the eyes or mouth. They may physically have the same appearance as comedones, which are fat and skin debris trapped within the pore, but milia are very different. Most people get them from a buildup of sunscreen or rich moisturizer. Whatever you do, DO NOT pick at a milia or try to extract them yourself — ask our aesthetician in Melbourne Chadstone store to take care of this one for you.

Eye creams. What to look for? Do eye creams really work?

The array of eye creams on beauty shelves can be almost overwhelming. Dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles .. We’ve been road testing the best for to find the perfect one for you

The basic overlying premise of eye creams is that products for the face and body aren’t sufficient for this very unique area. Why? Because the skin around the eyes is 10 times thinner and more delicate than the skin on our face, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles.

 

eye creams

 

Eye creams can address some of these issues. However, finding an effective eye cream can be difficult. Eye creams often advertised as “specially formulated” for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or claim to get rid of puffiness, dark circles, and sagging skin—yet, in many cases, they fail to live up to their promises.

 

What to Look for in an Eye Cream

First, it’s important to understand there’s no research indicating that specific eye-area ingredients differ from those you use on the rest of your face.

Avoid eye products that contain irritating ingredients, such as fragrant plant oils, synthetic fragrance, or sensitizing plant extracts, all of which can cause pro-aging inflammation.

What the eye area really needs are antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-repairing ingredients, in a soothing, fragrance-free formula. Hyaluronic acid (hydrates ), ceramides (retain moisture), retinol (promotes new cell growth or regeneration) and neuropeptides (increase the production of collagen and elastin), vitamin C (collagen production), and vitamin E ( nourishes and soothes skin).

Another beneficial ingredient for under the eye includes vitamin K (inhibits bruising and diminishes dark pigment or cast due to broken down blood cells). Kojic acid, arnica and licorice can diminish dark circles and lighten pigment under the eyes. Chamomile, tea extracts, and cucumber can help reduce puffiness.

 

Dark Circles, Puffy Eyes, and Sagging Skin

Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, and blood build-up. Sodium ascorbate, or vitamin C, can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, and kojic acid can also lighten dark circles.

Most importantly, during the day, whatever you put around your eye must contain sunscreen (something most eye creams lack).

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Dark Circles (15ml)Designed to improve blood haemodynamics and microcirculation, lighten dark circles and relieve bags or puffiness. $62.00
  1. Sircuit: WHITE OUT+ daily under eye care (15ml).  Improves skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Strengthens and thickens the delicate skin around the eye. $84.95

 

Fine lines and wrinkles come from both sun damage and your skin making less collagen as you age. Collagen helps maintain skin’s elasticity. Studies show that Vitamin C, peptides, and retinol have the ability to boost collagen production. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid also help; these are moisturizers that help prevent water loss in the skin and improve elasticity. Note you can tighten and firm skin to a certain degree, but no skincare product can magically pull up drooping eyelids or sagging under-eye bags.

We recommend:

  1. Medik8: Retinol Eye. Boosts firmness, plumpness and epidermal hydration under and around the eye. $84.95
  2. Eyesential. Quick and temporary fix to the area around the eye. Not a permanent repair so it is actually classified as a non-colour cosmetic rather that a treatment. $95
  3. Sircuit: I. CEE U.+ firming anti-aging eye gel (15ml)Helps instantly lift and revitalise the look of tired eyes. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and crow’s feet. $144.95

 

Puffiness is a build-up of fluid and blood under the eyes or can be from simply not getting enough sleep. Some studies show that caffeine can help circulation, which could reduce puffiness, whilst other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams.

We recommend

  1. CosMedix: Eye Genius Brilliant Eye Complex (7ml)A firming eye cream to renew the delicate skin around the eyes. $79.95
  2. Skeyndor Aquatherm: Soothing Eye Cream (15ml). When used daily, it softens the eye contour and rejuvenates the eye area. $65.00

If the puffiness is the result of fat pads that have shifted under the eye (which is a hallmark of aging skin), there are no creams in the world that can address it

Rosacea and skin redness

Facts about the condition:

  • Skin redness, which can also be Rosacea, is one of the most annoying skin problems, effecting more than 45 million people worldwide
  • Although redness can develop in people of any skin color, it generally occurs most frequently and is most apparent in people with fair skin
  • It typically starts after 30 years of age, is more common in women (particularly during menopause) but more severe in men
  • Left untreated, it can even cause deformities
  • Uneven skin redness usually appears on the face (forehead/nose/cheeks/chin) and usually begins with a tendency to flush and blush. This can progress to permanent redness and increased skin sensitivity
  • Redness can sometimes progresses to chest area

Main causes include:

  • Sun damage
  • Over sensitising skin
  • Hormonal or hereditary nature
  • Stress
  • Incorrectly prescribed or used skin care/ makeup or sensitivity to some of the ingredients in the products

 

Skin needs:

A combination of treatments and skincare that is suited to an individual’s pattern of skin redness. Focusing mainly on reducing inflammation, regulating blood vessel proliferation and trying to reduce trigger factors.

 

Dermal factors for skin redness include:

  • Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy acid). Rosacea can often display skin bumps formed by a build up of keratin around the hair follicle. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic action, which functions by softening the build-up of dead skin (keratin). Salicylic acid clears the pores, helps with inflammation and increases the cellular turnover, making it a very useful treatment for skin conditions like rosacea, especially when there is an acne component
  • Vitamin A (retinol):  improving barrier function, reducing epidermal thickening, regulating exfoliation and helping control excess oil and acne eruptions. Vitamin A can improve erythema (redness) and is also known to improve the appearance of telangiectasia.
  • Niacinamide – Topical Vitamin B (niacinamide) can greatly diminish the blushing and flushing commonly associated with rosacea and skin redness. Topical niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin and decrease the redness associated with rosacea flare ups.
  • Vitamin K— decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasia, aka spider veins
  • Vitamin C— has been shown to strengthen the capillary walls, thereby decreasing the chances of further damage

 

 

Home Care

We recommend a separate routine for morning and evening, simply because your skin’s needs differ from day to night.

 

During the day, you want to focus on giving your skin protection from the sun and environmental abuse, whilst providing lightweight hydration under makeup

  1. Cleanse: MEDIK8 RedAlert Cleanse – contains Teprenone, Vitamin K1 and calming organic orange oil to soothe the skin, and cleanse deep within the pores removing impurities and make-up.
  2. Prevent: MEDIK8 Firewall – neutralizes a broad spectrum of free-radicals , and acts in unison with sunscreen to protect collagen and elastin, while supporting new collagen production. Also helps to prevent future sun damage
  3. Correct: MEDIK8 Redness Corrector – advanced neutralising cream formulated as a complete ‘anti-redness’ product with 6 targeted actions to instantly reduce redness, treat inflammation and prevent the appearance of future breakouts. Reduces the burning sensation and skin discomfort associated with redness, and prevents future reactions by reducing skin reactivity. The moisturizing and protecting formula also provides instant coverage as mineral green pigments counterbalance the red discolouration.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8B5 – this lightweight and easily-absorbed hydrating gel delivers skin-softening Pantotheic Acid (vitamin B5) and moisture-enhancing Hyaluronic Acid to produce rapid and significant improvements in the general condition and feel of the skin.
  5. SPF: O’COSMEDICS Mineral Pro – provides true broad spectrum protection, preventing skin damage as well as assisting skin healing and reducing inflammation
  6. Coverup/Camouflage:  Lycogel  / Oxygenetics – calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective cover up

 

In the evening, your skin is at rest and in its “repair” mode, trying to heal the environmental damage that occurred during the day. You want to focus on calming, healing, removing surface dry skin cells and absorption of performance products.

  1. Cleanse: SIRCUIT X Trap – non-drying, mild cleansing agents restore balance, elasticity, and tone. Formulated with Organic Shea Butter to soften and smooth the skin and L-Alpha Bisabolol to calm, soothe, and help heal
  2. Heal: COSMEDIX Define – fortified with gentle, non-irritating acids and 2% AGP Complex, this resurfacing treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production for a dynamic yet well-tolerated level of skin remodeling.
  3. Correct: SKEYNDOR SOS Anti Redness – enriched with plant extracts helping to improve the appearance of rosacea and persistent redness, and provides freshness and immediate relief to the feeling of tightness and redness in sensitive skins.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8 Night – acked with superior anti-aging actives such as Resveratrol for cell longevity, and Beta-Glucan for skin texture renewal, Hyrd8 Night will help reverse the signs of skin aging and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

 

Treatment Plan

Light based treatments such as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL ) are effective in treating the capillary blood vessels (telangiectasia) as well as reducing the appearance of redness in the skin. While there is no cure for rosacea, effective treatment options do exist and can be tailored to the symptoms and severity. It is important to recognize and avoid trigger factors

 

Q&A

What ingredients in skin care has to be avoided and what to look for?

When selecting a skin care product, pay close attention to the ingredients and avoid chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, which can strip the epidermis of its natural oils. Inflamed skin calls for a gentle formula with a natural moisturizing factor, such as that which is found in chirally correct L-lactic acid, to effectively restore epidermal regularity. Similarly, toners and serums that contain hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E will calm, soothe and support the skin, as well as mildly exfoliate dead skin cells.

In surveys conducted by the National Rosacea Society, many patients cited the following ingredients as triggers for irritation: alcohol (66 percent), witch hazel (30 percent), fragrance (30 percent), menthol (21 percent), peppermint (14 percent) and eucalyptus oil (13 percent). Most respondents said they avoided astringents, exfoliating agents and other types of products that may be too harsh for sensitive skin.

 

What are different types of rosacea?

There are 4 subtypes recognized by the US National Rosacea Society

1.       ERYTHEMATOTELANGIECTATIC ROSACEA: this type of rosacea is characterized by stinging and facial redness on the nose and cheeks. It may or may not be seen along with broken capillaries. These symptoms come and go depending on the individual’s trigger factors. Roughness, facial swelling and a grainy skin texture may also accompany the other symptoms

2.       PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea resembles acne although it differs because there are no clogged pores or comedones on the skin. Larger than normal pimples occur mainly on the upper cheeks and nose along with intense redness. Stinging, burning and a dehydrated surface appearance may also occur

3.       PHYMATOUS ROSACEA: This type of rosacea shows up as thickened skin and enlargement of the nose (Rhinophyma) and other parts of the face. This type of rosacea is more often seen in men, although rosacea in general is found most often in women

4.       OCULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea occurs on the eyelids and in the eye resulting in swollen eyelids, lumps and cysts in the lids, bloodshot eyes and vision difficulty

Skin condition: Acne Scars

Acne Scars Skin Care

 

Facts about the condition:

  • As an acne cyst forms, the neck of the sebaceous gland expands, filling with bacteria
  • Eventually the cyst ruptures this “foreign matter” deep within the dermis quickly attacked by white blood cells responsible for fighting infection
  • 95% of acne patients will develop scarring to some degree, the earlier the treatment appropriate for the severity of the outbreak is initiated, the better the odds are that scar formation will be mild
  • Delaying acne therapy by 3 or more years is likely to increase one’s risk of more significant acne scarring. In other words, the longer you keep your scars they more they “want to stay” with you and the harder task it is to smooth them out.

Skin needs:

  • Combination of treatments that is suited to an individual’s pattern of acne scarring.
  • There are various types of acne scars including ‘ice-pick’, depressed, rolling, raised or hypertrophic, and red or white scars, and each can require a different approach to treatment.
  • Treatment of acne scarring almost always requires repeated treatments over a number of months for best results. Your skin therapist will be able to recommend a treatment plan that is best suited to your skin’s condition and the scars.

 

Home Care

 Medi8 Retinol 3R, 6R and 10TR, 15 ml, from $70. The best on the market. Not only they prevent scar formation, they aid in acne clearance and anti-ageing as well

Stratamed Gel for Professional Scar Therapy, 5g $24.95. Prevention and treatment of keloids and hypertrophic scars

Skeyndor Urban White, Overnight Serum, 30ml, $85. Improve the appearance of skins with blemishes or acne marks

Micro Needle Titanium Dermal Roller, 0.5mm, $70. Induce collagen synthesis by creating micro-punctures in the epidermis without compromising skin integrity

Lycogel Breathable Camouflage, 30ml, $95. Calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective coverup

Treatment Plan

  1. Chemical Peel for post inflammatory skin color changes and the most minor of acne scars. from $179
  2. Skin needling the most effective method of treating superficial acne scars. For all skin types including darker skin types . From $300
  3. Dermal fillers are used underneath the scars to give them additional support and improve their appearance. 

 

Q&A

Will vitamin E really help to improve my scar?

Despite the marketing hype, research has clearly shown vitamin E has absolutely no beneficial effect on scars. It’s just that as your body forms a scar there is a natural process of slow and gradual improvement over a period of about 12 months.

What skin types have bigger issues with scarring?

Scars are more of an issue for people:

  • who are Asian or who have dark skin – it’s not just their skin colour but other biochemical differences including the fact cells that make collagen are over-reactive.
  • aged between 10 and 30 – especially those who don’t have a genetic tendency for skin that heals well.
  • who have a wound on certain parts of their body eg the upper trunk, around the ear lobes or jaw line, or where movement puts extra tension on the scar.

What’s the Best Dermal Filler for Acne Scars?

Fillers can improve the appearance of acne scars by partially lifting the depressed scar but their effect is temporary. The results can last from between a few months to a year depending on a filler brand. Which dermal filler that is selected depends on the type of acne scar that is being treated.  For atrophic scars we use saline injections or a hyaluronic acid filler normally.  If there is  deeper tissue loss sometimes a volume filler is used.  Fillers are usually not helpful for thicker scars and ice pick scars.

Do you have skin care products to help me with acne and keep it under control?

Acne is one of the most common skin-care problems for people around the world. Many of us have gone to great lengths to banish every blemish, only to see them return again. You feel like you’ve tried everything, but no matter what you do, acne keeps coming back.

acne skin care products

What You Shouldn’t Do when you have acne!

Here are things that anyone struggling with acne should avoid:

  • Don’t use harsh or irritating skin-care products. Treating acne-prone skin gently is the best way to go.
  • Don’t wash your face with bar soaps or bar cleansers of any kind. Soap is drying, and the ingredients that hold bar soaps in their bar form clog pores. If you prefer using bar cleansers to clean your skin, we recommend a specifically formulated ‘Acne Bar‘ by A Natural Difference Clinical Skincare.
  • Don’t pick at blemishes! You can “pop” a pimple, but how you do it makes all the difference between healing and scarring.
  • Don’t use extreme heat or cold to clean your face or treat a blemish. Hot compresses or ice cubes are not the way to treat acne or to encourage healing; they cause inflammation, which will aggravate your acne. Pores do not open and close with hot or cold water.
  • Don’t apply thick, waxy hair-styling products or hairspray, especially if your hair usually touches your forehead. The ingredients in these products can clog pores if they get on your skin.
  • Don’t leave your make up on overnight. By leaving make up on you will clog your pores and create blemishes you are trying to conceal during the day-be sure to thoroughly cleanse your skin twice in the evening, and again in the morning.

 

What You Can Do to fight acne!

Experimenting with what works is an important way to create an anti-acne routine that works for you. A gentle, non-irritating skin-care routine is vital to get your acne under control;

  1. Gentle cleansing is a vital first step. A mild, water-soluble cleanser helps reduce oily skin and acne without making your skin feel dry and tight. We recommend Benefit Clean by Cosmedix.
  2. Exfoliate. Products that contain Salicylic acid, also known as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), can help kill the bacteria that causes acne. It is an amazing multifunctional ingredient that treats acne in several ways. It not only has potent anti-inflammatory properties, but also exfoliates to remove built-up dead skin cells on the surface of the skin as well as inside the pore. Salicylic acid also has antibacterial properties. For salicylic acid formulas to be effective, the concentration must be at least 0.5%, although 1% to 2% is far more effective; plus, the formula’s pH is a critical factor, with a pH of 3 to 4 being optimal. In addition, the product must not contain any irritating ingredients, because such ingredients cause inflammation, which you must avoid as much as possible. Fortunately, well-formulated salicylic acid products do exist. We recommend Pore Cleanse Gel by Medik8.
  3. Serums; Retinol, a vitamin A derivative can play a significant role in an acne treatment routine. They change the way skin cells are formed in the layers of skin as well as in the pore, improving how skin cells shed. This will unclog pores, thereby significantly reducing inflammatory lesions.

 

Caution for Acne sufferers:

  • Oral antibiotics can be extremely effective in controlling acne, but as effective as they are, they also pose serious risks that you must consider. Because oral antibiotics kill the good bacteria in the body along with the bad bacteria, ongoing use can result in chronic infections as well as stomach problems.
  • Birth control pills (some types) have been shown to reduce acne lesions and oil production, in part by decreasing androgens (male hormones), which are largely responsible for causing blemishes. Keep in mind that there are risks associated with taking any type of birth control pill (especially if you smoke)

What to look in skin care?

Skincare world may seem complex and overwhelming, but it doesn’t need to be.

You can think of good skin the same way as we think of good health. That is eating a balanced, nutrient-rich diet, keep active, stay away from sun exposure and smoking.

And our skin needs similar approach starting from nutrient-rich skincare regime.

Key ingredients in skincare products make a huge difference – after all it’s thought we absorb up to 60% of what we put on our skin.

So what is important to look for?

Good skin care ingredients

Vitamins

  1. Vitamin A – Retinol: Minimises and prevents wrinkles, diminishes fine lines and brown spots, and improves acne. Best of all, the prescription-strength version can promote the production of collagen
  2. Vitamin B: Reduces and prevents the formation of brown spots on the skin, improves the appearance of wrinkles, and reduces inflammation (which means it may improve acne, eczema, and rosacea).
  3. Vitamin C: Lightens brown spots and helps in preventing both uneven pigmentation and wrinkles from developing. Accelerates Collagen production. Collagen is the natural protein that keeps skin firm and plump.
  4. Vitamin D: Replenishes hydration and increases skin elasticity.
  5. Vitamin E: A powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from damaging environmental forces such as sunlight and pollution.

Acids

  1. Hyaluronic acid (HA): Tends to diminish with advancing age, sun damage and other environmental assaults. While HA in topical products can’t replace the HA that’s lost naturally in skin, it does have excellent moisturising properties. HA attracts and seals water into the skin, which not only protects the skin but also helps camouflage fine lines.
  2. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): Has an exfoliating effect. They occur naturally: Glycolic acid comes from sugarcane, malic acid from apples, lactic acid from milk and citric acid from citrus fruits. AHAs work on the outer layer of skin, removing layers of dead skin. It make the skin’s surface smoother and allow other beneficial ingredients to penetrate better. Helps boost collagen production and helps the skin hold onto moisture, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  3. Salicylic acid: Has ability to remove dead cells from the surface of the skin and clean out pores, unclog them, clearing blackheads, making the skin look and feel softer.

Minerals

Like vitamins, minerals have a wide range of skin benefits – primarily detoxing, regenerating and protecting cells against free radical damage.

NO-NO

  • No Fragrances
  • No Artificial colours
  • No Paraben preservatives

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