Tag Archives: SPF

In your 40s. Skincare Routine

By the time we’re 40, we usually feel that our skin-care routine is all worked out. But hormonal bombardment means your skin will benefit from some simple tweaks to ensure you make it through the decade with a youthful glow.

Gradual noticeable changes in the skin are due to a decline in estrogen which directly affects the function of key cells in the skin, such as fibroblasts (which produce collagen and elastin – whose job it is to keep our skin firm and smooth).

Many of us will notice:

  1. Increase in fine lines (around eyes  & mount, between brows, forehead)
  2. Brown spots (on face, neck, chest, back)
  3. Loss in skin tone (especially noticeable on the chin & cheeks)
  4. Minor skin growths (on the face and body that begin as small bumps)

Your ideal regimen

  1. CleanseChoose cleansers that remove the dirt without stripping your skin of moisture. Cleansers that “dissolve” make-up are the best. They don’t necessarily have to produce a lot of leather if any. Products containing natural exfoliators, such as alpha hydroxy acids, help slough away dead skin, clear up menopausal  acne and stimulate collagen production – these are usually best for thicker skins, prone to breakouts and spots. We have six excellent cleansers to select from in four skin care ranges. If you are stuck, just buzz us for a quick chat.
  1. Protect: This comes in two ways. Protect on cellular level with a stable vitamin C compound (we have 12%, 18% and 28% available, depending on your overall skin’s health). These serums come with added antioxidants to fight the free radicals and help reverse some of the damage you already have. The other side of the coin is of course SPF to prevent sun damage. Esquire about Vit C & Mineral Pro
  1. Rebuild: All the reparative processes in your body happen while you sleep. Your skin is exactly the same. Chat to us about various strengths and forms of Vitamin A (3TR, 6TR, 10TR) serums and balms we have for you to select from.  Your retinol prescription will take your skin to new heights!
  1. Hydrate: Did you know that hyaluronic acid is also called the KING of all moisturizing components? Skin needs constant hydration as well as retaining its moisture. Check the true moisturising system we have which combine both brightening and anti-ageing benefits.
  1. Do Not Neglect Your Eyes. Use an eye cream to reduce the appearance of fine lines or puffiness around the eyes. Dab it on with your ring finger, tapping lightly to give an instant circulation boost to the eye area. For the best eye anti-aging skin regime,talk to us about Cosmedix Opti Crytal ($125) or Medik8 Hydr8 Night Eye ($85) for the most delicate skin on your face

 

Is it Okay to mix skin care items?

Could your daily beauty routine be putting your skin at risk? Do you know which ingredients you should never combine to reduce your risk of skin irritation and pigmentation?

Incompatible ingredients or different pH ranges can irritate skin and lead to breakouts, rashes or topical skin dermatitis

Don’ts of skin care cocktailing

Don’t mix vitamin C with …

  1. Alphahydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Taking into account that both vitamin C and AHAs are acid-based overloading your skin with too many acid based-ingredients increases your chances of redness, peeling and skin irritation. Some AHAs even come with instructions to wash it off after a certain amount of time so that the skin can accommodate and tolerate it.

  1. Copper Peptides

Copper peptides help to encourage elastin and collagen formation, making it necessary for wound healing. But when used with vitamin C, the effects of each are cancelled out, rendering the benefits useless.

  1. Retinol

When mixing Retinol (vitamin A) with Vitamin C (especially high concentrations, 10% or higher) can cause the skin to become dry and even feel sensitive. However, there are some topical products that contain both ingredients, but chances are they contain low concentrations of each, making them safe to use.

 

Don’t mix Retinol with…

  1. Benzoyl Peroxide

Retinol and benzoyl peroxide can ward off acne and prevent the formation of new blemishes, but when used simultaneously, they can counteract each other’s benefits. Both are drying, exfoliating, peeling agents, and when they’re mixed together, they can cause excessive peeling, unwanted pigment, lasting redness and even blistering and scarring

  1. AHAs

Both retinol and AHAs can help to generate new collagen, but be careful when using them together. If your skin is sensitive alternate, applying the AHA in the morning and retinol at night for the first few weeks so a tolerance can be built. Essential for both retinoid and AHA to use a daily sunscreen as well, since both cause UV sensitivity.

Role of sunscreen

Your normal skin care regime of cleanser and moisturizer won’t interfere with the SPF effectiveness and shouldn’t irritate your skin. You can even layer on an antioxidant serum to boost your UV protection.

Irrespective of the ingredients you are using or which ones you are mixing to get added skin benefits always remember to add a daily sunscreen SPF 30 or higher that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

 

The bottom line

Most of the time mixing skin care items is okay, just be careful not to overuse one type of ingredient or layer ingredients that counteract with each other. To avoid unwanted side effects, keep your routine basic. Stick to one active ingredient in the morning and another one at night.

How to remove age spots effectively

Age spots are also known as brown spots or liver spots. They typically appear on areas most exposed to sun:

  • back of the hands
  • face
  • neck
  • decolatage
  • legs
  • back
  • shoulders

When we’re young we don’t even think they’ll appear on our skin (and even if they do – it’s so far in the future that you’ll deal with it when it happens). Unfortunately, age spots can sneak up on you before you know it.

Although unsightly, age spots are not harmful to your health in any way.

However, considering the importance of clear, unblemished skin to your overall image and self confidence, it is worthwhile making an effort to prevent and remove age spots if they do appear. Age spots can range in size from anything from a small freckle to much bigger in size, but they often group together making them appear larger

 

What causes age spots?

The main cause for age spots is sun exposure, which is why they usually appear on areas not usually covered by clothing such as the face, neck, hands and arms.

The sun-exposed skin produces a pigment called melanin as a natural defense against the sun’s harmful UV – and the body’s natural ageing process then causes cells to generate even more melanin, creating age spots. Genetics also play a role, with some people being genetically predisposed to age spots. Typically, they appear towards our 40s but some skin types can develop age spots and sun spots much earlier.

 

Removing Age Spots

This is one of those cases when prevention is better than cure. So the best way to treat age spots is to prevent them from occurring. It is must easier than you think!

It can be something as simple as making sure to apply ample amounts of sunscreen before heading out into the sun; covering your skin by wearing all white if you’ll be outdoors for an extended period of time; or avoiding the sun altogether if you please.

If you’re opting to go the sunscreen route to prevent age spots, make sure your sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays and has a minimum SPF 15. You should only wear physical, not chemical sunblock to avoid skin issues in the future. Remembering that sun protection doesn’t only shield you from age spots and sun spots but is also a must if you want to keep your skin looking youthful and healthy.

You can remove or fade out age spots in a few effective ways:

 

  • Microdermabrasion (which is not my favorite but moderately effective) – scrubs away the top layer of skin so that it is eventually replaced by new skin. It also improves overall skin quality.
  • Photo Rejuvenation by IPL/Laser (which is by far the fastest and the most effective way but not suitable for everyone), stimulates and shatters the pigmented spot allowing the body to eliminate the unwanted excessive pigment while having little or no effect on other tissues or on normal skin color. The brown spots may become darker within hours of treatment, then flake off over a 7 to 14 day period
  • Chemical peels (great but can be little time consuming) – Many experts say that peels are an ideal choice for the treatment of age spots, particularly for lighter coloured spots. There are many peels that are specifically formulated to help with the reduction of age spots and even out overall skin tone, while leaving the skin hydrated.

 

Best Products for Age Spots

Whether you opt for the procedure or the prescription route, following up with good skin care products will help your skin look its best.

The best products to use for age spots are anti-aging products that are packed with skin brightening ingredients. The best cream for age spots are commonly include Bleaching Agents, Niacinamides, Vitamin A or Vitamin C. They are great option to help brighten skin and fade age spots gradually over the course of a few months

 

  1. SerumWhite Balance Click OXY-R

White Balance® Click Oxy-R is a silky serum containing an innovative ingredient called Oxyresveratrol (Oxy-R). This active ingredient specifically helps minimise the appearance of skin pigmentation; reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone and improving the overall appearance of sun damaged skin. It contains 10 carefully chosen active ingredients in a patent-pending solution to help reduce the appearance of skin pigmentation as well as providing the feeling of immediate hydration. Suitable for sensitive skin, it is free from kojic acid, reinoids and Hydroquinone. It contains a hint of Ylang Ylang for a natural and comforting fragrance.  White Balance® Click Oxy-R contains a patent-pending stabilisation technology, which addresses and helps to inhibit the appearance of melanin-based pigmentation (caused by sun-damage).  The unique Click delivery system, coupled with splitting the formula into 2 x 10ml individual bottles, ensures the Oxy-R active remains fresh and potent for maximum results.

2. CreamDAY/NIGHT –  White Balance Duo

White Balance Day & Night are part of the Medik8 Pigmentation Solution. It is a daily moisturising system combining both brightening and anti-ageing benefits, containing a unique ingredient Oxyresveratrol (Oxy-R) which specifically helps minimise skin pigmentation; reducing the appearance of uneven skin tone and improving the overall appearance of sun-damaged skin. Working in conjunction with White Balance Click, they deliver long lasting and visible lightening benefits to the skin.  The day formula has an ultra-high SPF 50 coupled with a wonderfully light texture; perfect for all skin types. It provides instant brightening benefits thanks to light reflective pigments. Whilst melanin production continues as you sleep, the night formula carries on working, lightening skin colour and creating an even skin tone. Niacinamide helps to reduce dark spots and inflammation while improving the overall appearance of skin. Gluconolactone helps to repair the skin barrier overnight and thereby keeps skin moisturised.

 

3. Treatment – White peel

Superficial, quick and effective way to achieve a brighter and even skin tone, free of age spots and dark spots and hyperpigmentation, is to eliminate skin cells rich in melanin and prevent the darkening of the new skin cells. White Peel has been especially designed to target the skin’s pigment cells to gentle and effectively reduce the appearance of unwanted discoloration. Combines 4 acids to being you powerful results

  • Phytic Acid: an effective depigmenting agent with anti-tyrosinase activity, reducing the melanin content of the skin
  • L-Lactic Acid: an alpha hydroxy acid proven to reduce melanin formation
  • Salicylic Acid: loosens hardened keratinised material while providing gentle exfoliation for the skin
  • L-Mandelic Acid: a mild and effective alpha-hydroxy acid encouraging cellular regeneration. Often compared to glycolic acid for the results it provides without the negative effect: less redness, less downtime

 

Rosacea and skin redness

Facts about the condition:

  • Skin redness, which can also be Rosacea, is one of the most annoying skin problems, effecting more than 45 million people worldwide
  • Although redness can develop in people of any skin color, it generally occurs most frequently and is most apparent in people with fair skin
  • It typically starts after 30 years of age, is more common in women (particularly during menopause) but more severe in men
  • Left untreated, it can even cause deformities
  • Uneven skin redness usually appears on the face (forehead/nose/cheeks/chin) and usually begins with a tendency to flush and blush. This can progress to permanent redness and increased skin sensitivity
  • Redness can sometimes progresses to chest area

Main causes include:

  • Sun damage
  • Over sensitising skin
  • Hormonal or hereditary nature
  • Stress
  • Incorrectly prescribed or used skin care/ makeup or sensitivity to some of the ingredients in the products

 

Skin needs:

A combination of treatments and skincare that is suited to an individual’s pattern of skin redness. Focusing mainly on reducing inflammation, regulating blood vessel proliferation and trying to reduce trigger factors.

 

Dermal factors for skin redness include:

  • Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy acid). Rosacea can often display skin bumps formed by a build up of keratin around the hair follicle. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic action, which functions by softening the build-up of dead skin (keratin). Salicylic acid clears the pores, helps with inflammation and increases the cellular turnover, making it a very useful treatment for skin conditions like rosacea, especially when there is an acne component
  • Vitamin A (retinol):  improving barrier function, reducing epidermal thickening, regulating exfoliation and helping control excess oil and acne eruptions. Vitamin A can improve erythema (redness) and is also known to improve the appearance of telangiectasia.
  • Niacinamide – Topical Vitamin B (niacinamide) can greatly diminish the blushing and flushing commonly associated with rosacea and skin redness. Topical niacinamide can improve the barrier function of the skin and decrease the redness associated with rosacea flare ups.
  • Vitamin K— decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasia, aka spider veins
  • Vitamin C— has been shown to strengthen the capillary walls, thereby decreasing the chances of further damage

 

 

Home Care

We recommend a separate routine for morning and evening, simply because your skin’s needs differ from day to night.

 

During the day, you want to focus on giving your skin protection from the sun and environmental abuse, whilst providing lightweight hydration under makeup

  1. Cleanse: MEDIK8 RedAlert Cleanse – contains Teprenone, Vitamin K1 and calming organic orange oil to soothe the skin, and cleanse deep within the pores removing impurities and make-up.
  2. Prevent: MEDIK8 Firewall – neutralizes a broad spectrum of free-radicals , and acts in unison with sunscreen to protect collagen and elastin, while supporting new collagen production. Also helps to prevent future sun damage
  3. Correct: MEDIK8 Redness Corrector – advanced neutralising cream formulated as a complete ‘anti-redness’ product with 6 targeted actions to instantly reduce redness, treat inflammation and prevent the appearance of future breakouts. Reduces the burning sensation and skin discomfort associated with redness, and prevents future reactions by reducing skin reactivity. The moisturizing and protecting formula also provides instant coverage as mineral green pigments counterbalance the red discolouration.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8B5 – this lightweight and easily-absorbed hydrating gel delivers skin-softening Pantotheic Acid (vitamin B5) and moisture-enhancing Hyaluronic Acid to produce rapid and significant improvements in the general condition and feel of the skin.
  5. SPF: O’COSMEDICS Mineral Pro – provides true broad spectrum protection, preventing skin damage as well as assisting skin healing and reducing inflammation
  6. Coverup/Camouflage:  Lycogel  / Oxygenetics – calm and soothe the skin whilst providing effective cover up

 

In the evening, your skin is at rest and in its “repair” mode, trying to heal the environmental damage that occurred during the day. You want to focus on calming, healing, removing surface dry skin cells and absorption of performance products.

  1. Cleanse: SIRCUIT X Trap – non-drying, mild cleansing agents restore balance, elasticity, and tone. Formulated with Organic Shea Butter to soften and smooth the skin and L-Alpha Bisabolol to calm, soothe, and help heal
  2. Heal: COSMEDIX Define – fortified with gentle, non-irritating acids and 2% AGP Complex, this resurfacing treatment stimulates collagen and elastin production for a dynamic yet well-tolerated level of skin remodeling.
  3. Correct: SKEYNDOR SOS Anti Redness – enriched with plant extracts helping to improve the appearance of rosacea and persistent redness, and provides freshness and immediate relief to the feeling of tightness and redness in sensitive skins.
  4. Hydrate: MEDIK8 Hydr8 Night – acked with superior anti-aging actives such as Resveratrol for cell longevity, and Beta-Glucan for skin texture renewal, Hyrd8 Night will help reverse the signs of skin aging and restore a healthy, radiant complexion.

 

Treatment Plan

Light based treatments such as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL ) are effective in treating the capillary blood vessels (telangiectasia) as well as reducing the appearance of redness in the skin. While there is no cure for rosacea, effective treatment options do exist and can be tailored to the symptoms and severity. It is important to recognize and avoid trigger factors

 

Q&A

What ingredients in skin care has to be avoided and what to look for?

When selecting a skin care product, pay close attention to the ingredients and avoid chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, which can strip the epidermis of its natural oils. Inflamed skin calls for a gentle formula with a natural moisturizing factor, such as that which is found in chirally correct L-lactic acid, to effectively restore epidermal regularity. Similarly, toners and serums that contain hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E will calm, soothe and support the skin, as well as mildly exfoliate dead skin cells.

In surveys conducted by the National Rosacea Society, many patients cited the following ingredients as triggers for irritation: alcohol (66 percent), witch hazel (30 percent), fragrance (30 percent), menthol (21 percent), peppermint (14 percent) and eucalyptus oil (13 percent). Most respondents said they avoided astringents, exfoliating agents and other types of products that may be too harsh for sensitive skin.

 

What are different types of rosacea?

There are 4 subtypes recognized by the US National Rosacea Society

1.       ERYTHEMATOTELANGIECTATIC ROSACEA: this type of rosacea is characterized by stinging and facial redness on the nose and cheeks. It may or may not be seen along with broken capillaries. These symptoms come and go depending on the individual’s trigger factors. Roughness, facial swelling and a grainy skin texture may also accompany the other symptoms

2.       PAPULOPUSTULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea resembles acne although it differs because there are no clogged pores or comedones on the skin. Larger than normal pimples occur mainly on the upper cheeks and nose along with intense redness. Stinging, burning and a dehydrated surface appearance may also occur

3.       PHYMATOUS ROSACEA: This type of rosacea shows up as thickened skin and enlargement of the nose (Rhinophyma) and other parts of the face. This type of rosacea is more often seen in men, although rosacea in general is found most often in women

4.       OCULAR ROSACEA: This type of rosacea occurs on the eyelids and in the eye resulting in swollen eyelids, lumps and cysts in the lids, bloodshot eyes and vision difficulty

Emani – The purest line of cosmetics

Designed for professional make up artists and skin professionals alike, Emani Minerals are vegan friendly, talc, gluten & paraben free mineral cosmetics.

Emani Minerals was established in USA in 1998 with a single passion in mind: to create a healthy line of cosmetics that would not only meet but exceed the standards of the professional makeup industry while still remaining practical for everyday use.

 

emani cosmetics range

With the use of Emani products fine lines are softened, skin texture appears more even, and makeup feels weightless. Some other benefits

  • Made with natural mineral pigments and certified organic ingredients, which produce a range of makeup effects from light and shimmering to bold and dramatic
  • All the products have natural protection of SPF 17
  • Ideal for sensitive, acne-prone skin as well as for those with rosacea or other skin conditions or after chemical peels and IPL treatments
  • All products include only finely milled purified raw materials of the highest grade
  • Breathable and pore friendly
  • Free of talc, harmful chemicals, irritants, gluten and parabens
  • Free of Bismuth Oxychloride (enhances large pores)
  • Cruelty free. No animal testing and vegan friendly

 

Active Ingredients

Emani chooses to use certified organic ingredients from plant or flower extracts in formulations. They combine these extracts with key ingredients

  1. Mica. Transparent mineral which is mined from the earth. It can be opalescent and sparkling or completely matte. It is often treated with iron oxides to yield brilliant color effects.
  2. Iron Oxides. Natural oxides of iron that is combined with oxygen, varying in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow, depending on the degree of water added.
  3. Titanium Dioxide. Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation

 

Well, hope you get a chance to enjoy Emani Cosmetics as much as we do

How to pick the sunscreen in Melbourne?

The main purpose of sunscreen is to block the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) light from damaging the skin.

UV rays can be split into two classes: UVB rays which are associated with sunburn (think ‘B’ for burn), and UVA rays which are responsible for premature skin aging (think ‘A’ for ageing).

Both types of rays can be responsible for skin cancer.

What is SPF?

All sunscreens have written on the label the Sun Protection Factor, or SPF. The SPF acts as a multiplier. If you apply a sunscreen with SPF 10, you’ll remain protected for 10×10 minutes i.e. 100 minutes.

SPF was introduced in 1962 as a measure of a sunscreen’s protection against UVB – the higher the SPF the greater protection the skin has against sunburn. The star rating shown on sunscreen packaging is an indication of UVA protection – the higher the star rating, the higher the UVA protection.

Tip: Look for ‘broad spectrum’ sunscreen having combined protection from both UVA and UVB rays.

Physical vs chemical sunblocks?

Sunscreens are usually divided into two categories: physical or chemical.

  • When applied to the skin, Chemical sunscreens (such as para-aminobenzoic acid, benzophenones, and cinnamates) absorb UV radiation and convert it into harmless forms of energy.
  • Physical sunscreens lie on top of the skin and create a physical barrier to UV radiation. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are examples of physical sunblocks.

The advantages of physical sunscreens are that they:

  • reflect/scatter UV radiation rather than absorb it,
  • are not absorbed by the skin and thus provide longer lasting protection
  • cause less allergic irritations than chemical sunscreens

 

Check SkinCeuticals Ultimate UV Defence and Mineral Pro Triple Defence Moisturiser for more information

Request Free 10 min SKYPE Skin Consult when Ordered over $150